Strapping – Is it always advisable?
Hi
We have a new home under contruction. The first floor ceilings are I Joists. The second floor cathedral ceilings are 2x12s. Both are 16 oc. Is strapping advisable?
Thanks in advance.
Al Charbonneau
Hi
We have a new home under contruction. The first floor ceilings are I Joists. The second floor cathedral ceilings are 2x12s. Both are 16 oc. Is strapping advisable?
Thanks in advance.
Al Charbonneau
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Replies
In most of New England, it is done just about always, so much so that it almost seems like a requirement.
In many other parts of the country, it is not done at all.
As to who has the flatter sheetrock, I cannot say.
In my opinion, it is not required in new construction, but I would always advise that the rock be hung using butthangers at every end joint. That will contribute much more to flat ceilings.
Butthangers come in various types, or can be site made from sheet stock. The concept is that end joints are landed between joists and not on joists, and the butthangers are used behind the joints to permit the board ends to "suck into" the fastening, thus creating a trough for the drywall compound. Smaller joints, less mud, and flush instead of proud.
Google for "butthanger" and you will end up at some drywall accessory supply sites that show the product and information about installation.
It is worth it. If your contractor refuses, ask him to try it out on your job, and he can be converted. A little extra material cost and a little extra effort, makes for quality joints.
The attached sketch shows a drywall joint in section, and a site-made butthanger splice. The butthanger is a 6" strip of 5/8 plywood or OSB, with side boosters of 3/16" luan, ripped into strips and stapled along the edges. Done correctly, the splice backer, or "butthanger," makes the butt joint recess as shown, allowing for flush mudding of the joint.
Boy, are you right about butthangers. In haste (I had some helpers for a few days) I failed to use butthangers and I really regret it. Now I'm having to learn to live with an ugly ceiling.
The OP should be careful Googling "butthangers". He might end up on a site not exactly to his taste.
I have never seen strapping done in my part of the midwest but I can see an advantage to the electrician in running wires but it probably makes it worse on them to set boxes.
My parents did it but I think its frowned upon by many current authorities. In fact, in some states or communities stapping can get you thrown into jail.
>>>In fact, in some states or
>>>In fact, in some states or communities stapping can get you thrown into jail.
Of course, this can depend somewhat on whether the recipient enjoys it.....
There are a number of good reasons to use strapping, few of them an absolute requirement, but many of them advatageous for you.
In the floor situation, the strapping helps prevent deflection and bounce in the floor above. it also acts as a buffer re sound transmissions. you will hear less of the sounds carried from one floor to the other - footsteps overhead and bass radio sounds from the room below.
In the cathedral ceing, it can help prevent nail pops from shrinking or other movemnt in the solid framing materials. It can also be a benefit in the overall venting/insulation detailing there, which is a factor, but you have not mentioned. How do you plan to deal with that detail? Catherdral ceilings are a tricky detail when it comes to avoiding condensation issues and problems.
Thanks for your comments.
With respect to the cathedral ceiling, the ceiling will have a 5" of closed cell foam. The question is still open on whether to "flash and batt" or simply put up drywall. In either case, the will be no vents or vapor barrier on the inside which will allow the ceiling to dry out should moisture penetrate. The preceding is according to current thinking/literature.
I can think of no reason to strap the bottom of an I-joist ceiling. It's already pretty flat, and I doubt there would be any perceptible improvements in deflection or bounce, in fact I wonder if you're actually better off in that regard with your drywall diaphragm connected directly to the joists, especially with glue.
Your statement that your roof assembly will dry if it gets wet is not in line with all current thinking. If you have a roof leak, closed cell foam is going to be very slow to dry and it may cause moisture to spread out quite a ways if any does get in. Regarding vapor from the interior, your statement is probably more accurate.
I probably wouldn't strap the cathedral ceiling but I would absolutely add FG. 5" of foam is not more than about R-35. Depending on your climate you may want to go much higher.