I have a cinder block house that’s covered with stucco probably installed about 30 years ago. Just a thin plaster like coating with no mesh. Around 9 months ago, I paid to have work done on the house, and as part of the job, the contractor repaired the cracks in it, and then recoated the whole house with some kind of roll on finish, it was not regular paint, but something that foamed up a little bit on application.
The contractor also filled in the front of the garage with a new wall, and finished that to match. However, the job there was a total incompetent mess that is already cracking and he has now disapeared.
When they were putting on the finish, I saw the container, but did not write down what brand and type of finish it was. I’m hoping if someone makes the right guess, I will recognize the name. I’m going to have to pull the garage wall down and redo it and be able to match the colour of the rest of the wall.
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I'm bumping this up so maybe somebody with more experience in this can help. I am not familiar with a roll on that foam up.
Did he do a parge coat on the new block work first or just roll on the same stuff used elsewhere?
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No parge coat, just right on top of the existing stucco.It had rained heavily for a couple of days before, so all he did was brush off and wash a little.I'm not saying that was the right thing and considering the quality of the other work, it could well be that the whole thing peels off in a couple of years.That's another reason to try and pin down what he used, so I can read the directions.On the garage opening that was filled in - its 2x6 framing with plywood on top. I was told by the contractor that they were going to take off the plywood and put on something better then put mesh and real stucco on that and "paint" on top of it.It seems pretty clear now, that they did not do any of that and just put a thin coat of this thin stuff directly on the plywood without even sealing it and now its cracking where the edges of the plywood meet. I'm in Canada and although it was like summer yesterday, I expect its going to get too cold too fast to redo this whole mess this year.Right now I'n dealing with the fact that at the bottom of the new wall, its not sealed, caulked or anything. The bottom plate of the new wall is wrapped in plastic and rests on the existing concrete floor. The plywood covering and fake stucco, do not go fully to grade any more, since they fell off when I pushed it at the bottom, leaving gaps up to 3/4" allowing water, insects and whatever to get in (and I guess that has been happening for months without me knowing). The inside of the garage is now finished, and the moisture infiltration is bad news. Tomorrow I'm going too fill it with concrete mix so it least I get through winter ok.If I had been doing it I would have put a row of concrete block at the bottom of the wall to provide a solid seal across - but the contractor said that it did not need to be done that way.Hey look at the bright side, at least I did not buy the house down the street that he gutted and renovated. I see trades vehicles there all the time so I think the new owner is having to redo things weekly
Edited 11/10/2009 5:53 pm ET by BobRat
"STO" is the only thing that comes to my mind. They have a complete system for just about any application.
I don't know what this foaming product you speak of is, but there is a good stucco-finish paint availble from Master Finish (MF Paints). It's called ISO-TEX. It can be rolled on or troweled on (if you want a troweled stucco look), and will go on plywood or concrete. Plywood should be dry and primed with MF's alkyd primer first. Concrete doesn't need primer.
You can paint over it to match any colour although that isn't required to protect it. In its natural state, it is a pure, almost blinding white.
ISO TEX is an exterior-grade product; do not confuse it with 'Pierre Tex' which is interior only.
Longevity varies but is generally pretty good. On well prepped concrete or old stucco, it should last 15+ years. On primed plywood it won't last quite that long, but should give you 10 years without undue trouble if your substrate is good and dry. If the studs are green, or the ply was damp, it'll crack and peel in short order. Considering the time of year, you might be better off patching the leaks for the winter, then doing it all over right in the spring, especially if you're dealing with green studs. By spring or early summer, they'll have dried a good bit.
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