So, finally closing in on finishing my addition. 16 months after starting, DIY, weekends & vacation & buddies once in a while.
Locating exhaust hood and the centerline of duct falls on a stud.
2X6 framing, 8′ wall, 1st floor, 1 story bedroom and roof above. Stud falls under the 117/8 I joist above. Because of code dictated countertop outlets I cant really run a simple header on top with legs on either side. Can I just replace this 1 stud with 2 studs, each off set about 8″ from the original centerline of the stud to be removed? Seems like it would be fine to me but I am grasshopper looking for Master Po to guide me.
Thanks,
Jim
Replies
Sure. A little bit of a PITA for sheathing, but nothing that can't be easily handled. The main reason for maintaining regular stud spacing is to simplify sheathing/wallboard installation and minimize waste of same. Take pictures of the area before sheathing to help remind you where things are.
(This assumes that you've got sufficient wall header/rim joist strength that there's no need to keep the joist centered over the stud.)
Thanks for the reply.
Of course I didn't mention that the structure has been sheathed and sided for a year now. We added almost 50% of the sq ' of original house and added a bedrm, 2nd flr laundry, kitchen, 3/4 bath, and a garage below. The bones go up quick, it is all the mechanicals and interior details that take time. But it was oriented and added so that we never lose use of original kitchen and I actually just cut through to new space 2 months ago!!
Did you find Jimmy Hoffa?
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
No Hoffa
But dang!! Lots of amazing new, old junk space!
I would consider a single 2X6 header on the flat toe nailed, the sheathing will help lock it in place. The span would only be what, 30 1/2".
It would be a lot easier that trying to get at the top and bottom of a stud in a finished wall.
I may take some heat for this but...............cutting out one stud in a situation like this shouldn't matter.
However, I see you are using I joists. If you have a rim joist and the I joist is well connested to it, the rim joist will act as your header.
If done a gazillion remodels where one stud was cut out for one reason or another to no ill affect.
Flame away.
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You won't see me flaming. I don't think I'd lose any sleep over the expected 1/16" deflection that MIGHT occur. The op already has a suitable solution though. FKA Blue (eyeddevil)
I'd love to fight with ya ...
but losing one stud ain't gonna make the house fall over.
I bet the sawzaw blade don't even get "load pinched" when he cuts it out.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
That's how I judge the loading too Jeff. If it pinches, I'll rethink my decision to just cut one out. FKA Blue (eyeddevil)
Thanks to all who chimed in.
I am glad that my lack of worry over this is shared by many who actually know what they are talking about, as opposed to my "scratches head, and other body parts, "looks OK to ME!" figuring"
I will see if I can grab a few Simpson connectors at Heck depot or .............................
Thanks again all
Might leave ya 46 1/2" of unsupported sheathing and siding though if the studs are 2' O.C.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
they aren't.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Your right, at least in the case of the OP. I think.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Personally I'd add the additional studs and be done with it.
If it were a remodel I'd add a header and instead of running the jacks all the way to the floor there is a simpson clip that eliminates the jacks completely. In country where there aren't inspections I've been known to make a ledger of sorts from short studs, 3/4 ply or doubled up 3/4 ply that is nailed or screwed (structural screws like timberlocs) to the nearby studs. Timberlocs are rated to something like 250 pounds in sheer for a ledger so a dozen of them is good for 3000 lbs. A couple of timberlocs on the sides of the header keep it upright, or use a right angled simpson clip. I sleep well when doing these type of improvisations and most mechanically inclined inspectors would agree and some will even overlook the fix and just not admit to it.
Similarly, a piece of 1/4" angle with 4" or 6" legs can support a huge amount of weight when attached with structural screws and is in all respecs overkill if done well. This connection is often spec'ed when attaching steel beams to wood framing, so in the case of a missing stud you're in pretty good shape. (no need for the engineers here to point out the technical difference in a wood to wood connection, I realize this isn't as good with a heavy wood beam, but we're only talking about a header for a missing stud).
However, don't expect the building department to give the go ahead to something like this without an engineers ok unless it's the simpson header connector. It's how the game is played.
Good building
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.