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subfloor over slab ?

| Posted in Construction Techniques on January 24, 2006 06:24am

One of my client/friends wants to put a hardwood floor in a little shed/room that is bult over what was once a patio slab ( still has the semi-circular concrete step).

Is there any reason to use or not use a floating floor system, like DRI-LOCK? Since this slab is above, or at least at, grade do I need the plastic moisture barrier? It’s kinda pricey, but the ease of instalation is attractive, no ripping framing lumber for sleepers and no ramsetting or tapcon drilling.

eagerly awaiting your wisdom.

Eric

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  1. scottthebuilder | Jan 24, 2006 06:05pm | #1

    I did one at grade that was just like that. It was a garage converted to a room in the seventies. We put down a layer of 3/4" Dow Corning foam sheet. Tyvek taped all the seams and foamed the perimeter. Tapconed 3/4" OSB Advantec, vapor barrier, 3/4" Oak, sanded and finished. It's been 3 years and looks perfect. I think the key is sealing the perimeter outside so water can't get in is the key. We rolled on 3 coats of Vulkem sealant below grade to 1" above grade to keep water out.(FLA swampy lot on a pond) The HO loves the room and commented on how quiet and what even temps it had where it was damp and musty before. FIXED I hope!

    1. LazerA | Jan 25, 2006 06:46pm | #2

      "We rolled on 3 coats of Vulkem sealant below grade to 1" above grade to keep water out." I was reading with interest your reply and was curious about this product. Went to their website but couldn't figure out what you used. Can you tell me which product did you use? Was this an extrerior app? How did you prep? I have some water issues I am trying to deal with. Thanks for any help you can offer!

      1. scottthebuilder | Jan 26, 2006 01:25am | #4

        No, I don't recall the exact product name. We have a local Vulkem distributor and they are very knowledgable. It is called Coastal and is in Jacksonville, FL. You walk in with a waterproofing issue and walk out with the knowledge and products to fix it. It was a black polyurethane based product with the consistency of a thick milkshake. Really nasty stuff you basically throw away all implements used in its application. I normally use it to stop leaching in raised masonry flower bed retention walls.

        1. LazerA | Jan 26, 2006 01:35am | #5

          Thanks Scott, you wouldn't have a phone number by chance? Appreciate the help!

          1. scottthebuilder | Jan 26, 2006 02:01am | #7

            Coastal Construction Products (904)398-7171

            Describe it as I have and they will know what you are looking for.

          2. LazerA | Jan 26, 2006 02:14am | #8

            Much appreciated, thanks!

          3. scottthebuilder | Jan 26, 2006 02:42am | #9

            Here is the product, I dug up an old packing slip.

            http://www.tremcosealants.com/fileshare/pds/Tremproof201datasheet.pdf

    2. esp71 | Jan 25, 2006 10:16pm | #3

      Did you install the OSB right over the insulation? No sleepers?There is only 2" to work with before the new floor would bury the sliding door to the deck, so I don't have the space to build it up that much. Do you have any experience with DRI-core?eric

      1. scottthebuilder | Jan 26, 2006 01:56am | #6

        No sleepers, with no point load I don't think the foam will ever settle or compress. 3/4 OSB with 3" tapcons 16 OC in every direction. I needed it quickly and have never used DryCore. We don't have many basements down here in FLA.

        1. esp71 | Jan 26, 2006 05:17pm | #10

          thanks for the feedback and another idea on how do do this.eric

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