Hello all, I’m looking for information and advise on preparing a pine subfloor for 3/4 x 3″ R. oak unfin strip.
My floor is bare now (for 10 mos.) and wood is acclimatizing, how much ply is needed to run strips perpendicular to joists (parallel w. existing subfloor)?
For a tighter overall job is it best to nail down in drier times? Live in Toronto, summer is humid and winter can be dry(ish), no a/c for summer humidity control. Existing is 13/16 x 4″ pine t&g over rough sawn 2×10 @ 14-18″ ctrs. built in 1919 and before code. Ply will be screwed to joists @12″ under #15 felt. Floor is above un-heated full, rough basement.
Thinking of 3/8″ sheathing?
thanks for listening
Thom
Replies
If you have 3/4" pine subfloor already and plan to run the red oak flooring perpendicular to the joists, I see no reason for th eplywood
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Thank for the quick response, still concerned about having strip flooring and sub parallel, if edges line up couldnt shifting occur? Pine is sound and will be screwed down but floor is a bit spongy (no building code), plan on cross blocking and redoing sections.
Would the pine still be adequate if a pattern was laid, like a modified herringbone? This is my house and will be seen by clients often, I build furniture, cabinets and renovate (gotta get it right).
sorry to keep on this
thanks
thom
OK, several details here now not mentioned first...Here, there are a lot of floors where the subfloor and finish are running the same direction. The subfloor was green lumbner when laid originally and not dried long. Even the biggest manses got finished from foundation to paint in six months to a year.
So the floors have a wider gap in the finish floor about every 3-4 strips.
But yours sounds like thje subfloor has been there long enough to be stabilized equally as welll as the finish strips so that should not be a problem.On the sponginess - if you need ply to correct fo rthat, I doubt 3/8" will help. use at least 1/2" and glue it often along with screwing or lots of ring shanks
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Like Piffin said, you don't need any plywood, just the felt. Your pine subfloor is the ideal nailing base for a strip floor.
Bill
Has the flooring been insoide for 10 months? Sounds like one of my jobs ... how long did it take until DW got tired of walking around it? Anyway, running perp to the joists with well acclimated flooring sounds like it will turn out well.
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I am currently finishing off an attic for the contractor I work for. It has 1x8 t&g diagonally laid.
However, the floor is rough, as in a lot of cupped and warped boards, large spaces and high knots just to mention a few.
We use a sub for floor installs. He will be installing prefinished strip oak, but I am wondering what his prep will consist of.
If your subfloor is cupped significantly, or in any way similiar to the one on my job you may very well have a valid concern.
Can you take a few pics and downsize them to around 100k and post them?
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