Spent all day roughing in my bathroom, finally got to the point of soldering the copper pipes back to the supply. Went outside shut of the main supply and uncapped the pipes where I am attaching old to new. Water poured out – no worries I’ll let it drain and then solder. The Problem is that the water kept coming. I small dribble from the pipe that prevented me from soldering the line. I stuuffed bread up the supply side to temporarily stem the flow but I am by no means a great plumber and failed on several occasions to solder the pipes before the bread dam burst. I am now cold and wet and am turning to the break time community for help. Why is there still a small amount of water flowing thruogh my pipes after I shut the supply off? Is there something wrong with my main shut-off valve? I am out of bread but want to solder this last junction tonight, any tips? Anything I can stuff up the line that will block the flow long enough for me to sloder the junction?
Thanks,
Replies
I had the same thing happen a few months ago. I went around the house and opened every faucet to make sure I wasnt holding a vacuum somewhere - no go, the small amount of water kept coming. I figure it was just a very slow drainage plane. In desparation I used my air compressor and shot a whole bunch of air into the pipe. It kept the water from coming back for a few minutes - time to get the it sealed up.
Good luck.
Edited 10/30/2005 8:04 pm ET by TTF
There are capsule like plugs that you can get that work similar to the bread. But they might not be available this late in the day. Or if you are in OZ then it might not be late, but I don't know if they are avaibable over there.
Yes, you main shut off might be leaking. Can you access the city's shutoff valve?
But you might have water just because it is draining water from other parts of the house.
Try opening faucets that are at a lower level (and don't forget that you often have low ones on the outside) and/or before the area that you are working in. If the main shutoff is leaking that might divert the water before it gets to the area that you are working on.
Also after you open the other faucets open and that are higher level and/or after the area that you are working on. That will allow any water that is in that area to drain out and it could be the source of water that causing the problem.
Then take a wet-dry vac and try and suck out any standing water.
if you are on a well, then shut power off to the well and drain the tank and you should be good to go.if not on well then try to turn water off at the street
Go to your main shutoff and try tightening the packing nut. They can usually move 1/4 turn or so (righty-tighty) and that may make the difference. Then go and shut off the valves at all the toilets and at the water heater, so that there is no chance you are siphoning them.
Then use TTF's trick of blowing compressed air up the pipe. It will usually result in some water flowing out fairly fast after a second or so, then it will stop. It may start again but it may give you some time to solder the pipe. Give it several bursts of air if you need to.
Along these lines, my plumber bought a $1000+ tool that "crimps" special copper fittings with O-rings right onto existing copper. No need for soldering. Apparently these are often used in hospitals and industrial settings where flame is a no-no. Anyway, on remodels he cuts into the lines wherever he needs to and crimps on a ball valve. Then he shuts the ball valve and starts soldering from there. Completely eliminates that damn trickle problem.
You can do a similar thing by soldering on a copper male adapter. The water steam a little but you can usually sweat the fitting on anyway. Then thread on a ball valve and close it!
Good points made by all.
shutting the meter off is usually the best.
Your main valve is probably a gate valve --- notorious for getting crap in them preventing them from closing all the way.
another trick is what we call burning a valve or a union --- that is soldering a valve at the point of connection in the open position this way your soldering 1/2 of a fitting without creating pressure build up , when done then shut off valve & make connection to system, or use a sweat union in the same location achieves the same results.
I run into that problem pretty often, where the main at the meter turns off, but some water continues to flow past it. Sadly, I normally have to have the meter(and valve, here its basically one part) replaced. We've had to do it on three rentals, and it sadly sometimes requires a backhoe. At least here, we can buy the meter/valve from the city for about $75.
I havent read the other answers . What you could have done ;
I always hook up wet to new dry copper with ferrule fittings. Or repair any wet copper with ferrule. I think its less expensive if you figgure labor. You could have used a ferrule shut off and been in business in minutes. I dont know why the water didnt quit but I wouldnt have been exited to find out and would have at that time added a shut off . I realize that answer is boogering , but somthing has to pay the bills. Theres not time to look at it and ponder too long in my view unless Im on someones clock and request. If you choose to spend time on it your self you will have to trace it back from the meter first. Most meters now have a leak device which is a "*" which turns if its leaking. Or record a reading and come back in an hour. Past that normally its gravity related either from an uphill service , hot water heater , etc.
Tim
don't forget to flush all the toilets as well to open their valves.
JT