I have a house to re oil. The local yard carries this product, Super Deck. Is there any reason not to use it?
John
I have a house to re oil. The local yard carries this product, Super Deck. Is there any reason not to use it?
John
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Replies
i've used it on pressure treated decks and it's awesome.
For siding< i think I would also check out Sikkens and see which would look and wear better on what you have.
I am almost done staining my house and garage workshop with Superdeck. It's the first time I'm using it so I don't have long term experience, but it goes on nicely and seems like a solid finish after it has dried.
The 'guarantee' on the can says 15 years for vertical siding so I'm hopeful it will last a while. I've given up cleaning my brushes and just put them in the fridge between staining sessions - I'll toss them when I am done the job. I've used 14 gallons of this stuff on the house and another 3 gallons to do my PT deck.
cheers - mark
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http://www.markswoodworking.ca
They also make the Mason's Select stain for Hardiplank.
Great stuff
Joe H
I used superdeck very successfully on PT deck, cedar railings and cedar bevel siding in the extreme climate of Fairbanks. Like any deck treatment with leaf/needle fall and heavy UV it will require some touch up here and there. The protected siding looked awesome. I am using it here in the PNW now on cedar decking and railings and home sawn doug fir board and batt. I liked the price I got so went with SD over Sikkens and Penofin etc
Stache
We've used it on our exterior cedar doors and we love it...I was thinking of using sikkens on our siding(we used Behr-bad choice)
but if super deck works out for you, it's cheaper and like the man said-nothing will last over 5 years.silver
I am not familiar with Superdeck. It sounds like what is called a "long oil" finish. A long oil finish is just product you'd use on your nice interior woodworking project, but with more oil added. The reason is more oil makes a softer, BUT more flexible product. For example, the seventy dollar per gallon product one would use in a marine application must flex with the constantly changing moisture and temperature conditions. The solution is, again, increase the amount of oil.
Key to the quality of this is, throw away the promotional BS. For example, "one coat"? Bull.
Manufacturers' product promotions merely play on our desire to take the easy way out and our inclination to get their via a silver bullet (I have dibs on that name for my new five thousand year deck finish). Which would last longer, a hardening oil impregnated piece of wood, or something with a single surface coat. If the latter fails, it will allow moisture into the wood underneath and would hold that moisture in.
Nothing is maintenance free. Rather it's a matter of how much maintenance and how hard it will be. While they say it would last fifteen years, my experience is it would last, at most, three years here in the Northwet, before needing another application. Waiting any longer would allow the wood to begin deteriorating and would reduce the effectiveness of whatever was applied (e.g., shrinkage would result in cracks that would not fill and that would allow moisture in, which can freeze and compound the deterioration).
If this is primarily a surface coat (e.g., it contains resins to seal the surface and that would cause applications to build on each other, like varnishes, but unlike oils surfaces that don't build), you aren't going to get the life you'd hoped. Too, you're going to have to either scuff or remove the old coat, depending on if you did take the time to maintain it. More specifically, if you wait ten years of the fifteen claimed, your wood is going to look like hell and the finish will be cracked and separating. If you keep on it, you would only have to scuff it and add new coats.
If this is more of a hardening oil, you just need to clean it and add new applications, making SURE to wipe off excess (otherwise it will orange peel)
As the can notes, the product contains iron oxide. Though a good thing, this isn't anything exotic. It just serves as a UV shield. Technically, you could acquire some and add it to your own product.
If I had a lot of deck to do, I'd go with raw tung oil (takes a bit longer to dry than processed, but costs a gazillion dollars a gallon less). You can go to oil suppliers on line and buy it in, for example, five gallon quantities.
Tung oil does not invite moss and mold growth like boiled linseed oil (flax seed oil prepolymerized) and, thinned, it penetrates deeply, leaving no place for water to absorb and can harden wood as much as twenty-five percent.