Okay, here is the latest project. I have a drive-out basement with two old, decrepit swing-up garage doors. The garage is used exclusively for woodworking, so I would like to replace them with something that I can seal a little better. The plan is to build swinging doors, two per opening.
So, how do I do it? My thought is to build them torsion box style, with a 2×2 inner framework skinned with 1/2″ plywood on both sides. I would put rigid foam in between my framework pieces, and apply molding to the outside skin to get the look I want. Any opinions on that?
Then, I’m wondering if I would have to have more solid wood at the edges for mounting hardware (2×6? 2×8?). And what kind of hardware should I use? They aren’t entry doors, but they do have to lock. Suggestions?
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Bart
Replies
Yep, that'll do quite nicely. Coupla suggestions...
With torsion box construction, the key is to get the box flat before you fasten the second skin on. After you fasten that second skin, you can't remove any warp.
Plan on one door opening first, and use astragal molding to cover the vertical seam between the doors.
I add a sheetmetal hat to the door top to direct infiltrating water back to the outside, and to protect the top of the door if it gets left open in the rain.
Use big hinges and serious screws on them. These doors are going to be considerably wider than the usual house door, and will exert big leverage on those screws.
You can probably find sutiable standard garage door and/or gate hardware in your local hardware store. I use bolts up and down to lock one door, and a keyed handle on the other door.
Thanks for the great suggestions. What exactly is astragal (sp?) molding? And do you think I would need to put more solid wood around the edges of the door for the hardware?
Thanks again!
Bart --
Astragal molding has a T-shaped cross-section. It is the traditional molding used on pairs of doors like you're going to build; check out a pair of French doors if you can. Actually, you get much the same effect by having a molding on one door overlap the other door. It covers any gap between the doors so you can't see through, or rain can't blow in.
Yes, you should have solid wood forming the edges of the door. It is what ties the door skins together. It is also what the hinges tie to. The wood should be wide enough that the hinge screws get a really good purchase. You might consider building the torsion box somewhat large, and trimming it to fit the opening. If you do that, make the lumber wide enough that you'll still have a couple inches of width after trimming. I like to put solid lumber inside the door where the other hardware will mount. It gives better purchase than just the plywood.
Hi Bart.
A 2x2 framework is no good in your case. Use torsion box construction, but use no less than a 2x4 width for the perimeter. A 2x6 would be better. If you have access to a surface planer, plane your wood down to about an inch or 1-1/16 to cut down on some of your weight. You could easily get by with using 1/4 inch luan glued on both sides of your framework rather than use the 1/2 inch stuff. Or you could use 1/2 inch on the exterior layer, but I would still opt for 1/4 inch on the interior side to cut down on weight. The doors will be plenty stiff even with using 1/4 inch luan.
I have built many an exterior shop door using this method. If painted properly, they will last a long time. We always used three, 4 inch, "T" style, strap hinges to hang the larger style doors. The hinges were attached with lag bolts, or for security purposes, we ran carriage bolts clear through. If security is not a concern, large wood screws, or lags will work just fine.
An astragal is simply a wide, wood "stop" that is screwed to the backside of one door, and in which the other door butts into and locks to,when both doors are closed.
Food for thought.....why are you going the home-made door route in the first place? Why not instead replace your two existing garage doors with steel "roll-up" doors? If you have the head room, this is what I would opt for. Roll-up doors can be opened easily with a motor attached and the door simply rolls up into a cover box above the head jamb. The doors are indestructable, and can seal out weather very well. They are easy to maintain, and take up no space at all ( except for some over-head space).
Your home-made door route will involve you unlocking a set, swinging each door open, keeping each door propped open when in use, and then re-swinging each door to close. Plus you will have to install some sort of lock...padlock in most cases; which someone could possibly tamper with if they had a mind to. It's time consuming, takes up quite a bit of room, and down the road will become a royal pain.
I speak from experience...our shop's main front door was a double set of home-made doors like the kind you intend to build. Our rear door was a roll up. The roll-up got the most use...it simply was easier to haul things in and out through this opening than it was through the other.
I'm unsure as to the cost of a roll-up door...it all depends on the size; perhaps $1,000-$1,500 per door; But, don't take my word on this as I'm really not sure of the cost; you definately would need to check with a local supplier for sure. No doubt though that this route will be way more costly than building your own, which should cost you approx. $150 in materials ( plus your time) to build one ,double-door set.....so if money is an issue, the wooden doors will definately be the cheapest route.
If cost is not your chief concern, then IMHO you can't be a roll-up for your kind of situation.
Here's one more option to consider....if money is a little tight. I'm assuming you don't plan on keeping vehicles inside since you claim the garage to be a dedicated shop...but even if you needed to only house a vehicle in one garge bay, then this next option would work...install a roll-up in the one bay, and then frame in the other bay and just install a man door. Use the man door for your regular comings & goings, and use the roll-up side when you need to ship in or out bulky items. Just a thought.
Good luck on whatever you decide.
LOL.
Davo
Money is definitely the driver here, Davo. Even if money was no object I couldn't get away with a roll-up because the ceiling is so low already. If I could I would just buy a set of steel double-entry doors.
Good tip on using carriage bolts through strap hinges for security, I hadn't thought of that. Unfortunately, the opening around the door is brick with something like a 2x8 casing set back an inch or two from the face of the bricks. I think mortised butt hinges are going to be about my only option.
Anybody else have ideas?