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do a search through the archives, you'll find a lot of previous discussions. I think some brands of synthetic are regional, so some of what we have here might not be available for you. Make sure you pay attention to the expansion and don't space joist over 16 oc.
Weatherbest is my favorite. I like the colors available, the grain pattern, and the color matched screws. I also like not having to do anything but enjoy it once the last screw is driven.
I've used Weatherbest on a number of projects this year, most notably a porch and deck at a dormatory for a local college. I love the stuff, and will be using it again in a few weeks. What screws do you use? I stick mainly with McFeelys stainless steel screws, and have found the best way to get a clean look is to predrill. On a 400 sq ft deck, it's a lot more time and Bengay.
Do the headcote screws work as well with prior countersinking? I tried the composite deck screws a few years ago and still had to pound down the mushrooms. This has probably be covered ad infinitum in the past, I'm sure...
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
I use FastenMaster's Trap-Ease screws. They're square drive with a head that captures the mushrooming. Two different sets of threads on the screw. The lower set cuts through the synthetic and engages the framing. The upper set is a finer, but wider thread that then engages the decking. They're color matched for just about any composite decking out there.
Funny thing about these screws is that they actually work better when run in with a cordless drill set on low rpm, high torque as opposed to an impact driver. I'm not sure why, but that's what I've found.View Image
I would highly recommend that you look into hardwood decking called Ipe instead of any synthetic composits. It It looks a whole lot better, is much more scratch resistant, and is about the same cost. It should also last 3 times longer with less maintenance. It has the same sort of properties as teak, but not nearly as expensive.
It is a little tricky to work with, since it is such a dense wood. It needs to be pre-drilled with just the right size drill bit before using screws or the screw will bind up an snap off. I will not talk about nails here, since any decent contractor would not use nails.
All the synthetic decking will degrade in the sun's UV rays. Just like all plastic products do. Besides how it looks bad when it is new, it will look worse as it ages, getting very chalky, with fibers rubbing off in your hands. Time will tell, but I already see evidence of it falling apart.
It is like with plastic gutters versus metal. It may not rust, but they neglect to tell you how it will not last even as long as cheap steel gutters beacuse of this issue. Even when they are new; you cannot lean a ladder against them, since they have very little internal support or strength.
The Ipe hard wood is so dense and rigid that it can be made with half the thickness boards and have even less flex. If you want to save money on the floor joists and use a cheaper wood, you can screw a 2x2 into the top side edge of the floor joist and have something to use to screw up into the bottom of the deck floor. Then get some aluminum or copper sheet metal 5" to 6" wide to use for a cap metal over the floor joists and this 2x2. ?Have the sides bent down at a 45 degree angle for a dripedge on each side long wise. This should help keep the floor joists dry and strong for many decades.
Copper-By-Design
David & Tia Rich (503) 351-7082
http://copper-by-design.com
Edited 9/9/2006 12:35 pm ET by Copper-By-Design
Edited 9/9/2006 12:41 pm ET by Copper-By-Design
Edited 9/9/2006 12:53 pm ET by Copper-By-Design
Edited 9/11/2006 12:00 am ET by Copper-By-Design
Edited 9/11/2006 12:01 am ET by Copper-By-Design
My favorite too, but it's spelled Ipe`
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Sure.... but how do you pronounce that?
GoodLuck
Short I, long e
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
E Pay
I ripped up a large (40x12) section of my PT deck earlier this year and put down "correct deck".
I love it. they make two kinds, the one I used has a groove in the sides of the boards that accepts a plastic clip, then you screw through the clip so there are no nails or screws in the face of the board.
It went a little slow at first then the pace picked up with the learning curve
I finished a Trex deck recently. It was fairly easy to work with, though there was a fair bit of variance (up to 1/8") on the width of the deck boards, which wasn't something I expected. Because of the design of the deck, it messed up the layout a bit.
I put it down with the Trap-ease screws and an impact driver. If you are going to have exposed fasteners, that's really the way to go.
We have used Evergrain decking quite a few times in the last several years. We have generally used Ipe clips to fasten it down. These insert into slots cut with a bisket cutter in the sides of the boards, and screwed down with stainless steel screws. It takes a little longer than face screwing, but the results are far superior, with the only screw holes showing in the first and last boards.
We have used Elk's Cross-Timbers with their EZ-Build fastening system with great success. Doesnt seem to expand/contract as much as trex and seems to be a little more scratch resistant than some of the others.