I just recently purchased a new table saw that has a cast top. After cleaning the machine oil off from packing, what would any of you suggest to “polish” the top to prevent surface rust?
Thanks,
Jeff
I just recently purchased a new table saw that has a cast top. After cleaning the machine oil off from packing, what would any of you suggest to “polish” the top to prevent surface rust?
Thanks,
Jeff
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Replies
Paste wax
paste wax...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
David Doud's Bee's wax!
[email protected]
So, parrafin wax is preferable to polymer based polishes?
I made a concoction of parafin desolved in terpentine. Take awhile for it to desolve. But it doesn't mess up wood very much.
Edited 8/23/2007 9:38 pm ET by larryscabnuts
David Doud's Bee's wax!
yes, you too can possess the magic elixer of cast iron protection! product of unparralled versatility! why a small quantity of said product not only allows you to drive piffin screws thru cabinet backs into oak studs and protect your saw table from rust, but will also help your luck with the ladies! (please read label) -
yes, just send one 10" combination blade of good quality (no chinese blades) to me, and recieve a generous supply of wax havested from mostly happy bees -
act now! bees are on the decline! get this endangered product while it lasts!
(offer not good in the confederate states of america - republicans send two blades.)
"there's enough for everyone"
Top-cote, or I used to use the Slipit (sp?) stuff Piffin mentions. Some waxes are acidic.
Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.
I use Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax. Just make sure you do not use anything with silicone in it if you are going to do stain grade stuff. Think I got it at True Value. It smells good too.
http://www.bwccompany.com/bowlingalley.html
I scotchbrite clean and put multiple coats of the above.
Edited 8/23/2007 10:41 pm ET by rasconc
Baby talc, according to the place I spent over $15,000 on Powermatic tools at 30 years ago. They advised using it on the planer beds, jointer and table saw .
Just plain old talcum powder, It will seal the pores in the top and provide a smooth , slippery surface, repels water.
"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
I use a piece of wax paper crumpled up and rubbed on. I tuck it into an area of the saw so it is handy. The wax paper has parafin on it.
Depending what sort of materials you will be cutting...
Wax is not friendly to some finishes if you are a cabinet making guru.
I use a product called Slip-it, available from some woodworking slupply places.
In the past I used Boeshield B-9 which is a spray wax with molecules small enough to penetrate the crevices in the metal. It was developed by Boeing aircraft. But I found that the slippit goes much farther per dollar.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
IMHO, wax sucks.
Use Bostik "Top Cote." Spray it on, let it dry a minute, buff it off. Get it at Grainger.
Thanks, to all, for your comments.
Jeff
heavy use.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Dave's Dirty Dozen
"Dave's dirty dozen"
1) Scrape as much of the sludge as you can off with cardboard from the shipping container or a plastic scraper.
2) Use Simple Green right out of the container and tons of paper towels to get the rest off.
3) Wash off the Simple Green with more paper towels and clear water. Dry off with even more paper towels.
4) Spray the top down liberally with WD40. The WD in WD40 stands for Water Displacing, by the way.
5) Take a finishing sander, like a Porter-Cable 330, and put it on a ScotchBrite green pad. Random Orbital will work, but makes a hell of a mess.
6) Sand the top evenly until you feel like you've "massaged" the WD40 in very well. This also will knock some sharp spots off your top, a good thing.
7) Take even more paper towels, and wipe the top until dry. It will feel slightly oily.
8) Using a quality furniture paste wax (Johnson's, Minwax, Butcher's, whatever is available in your area), wax the top thoroughly and allow to dry.
9) Wipe off the bulk of the excess wax with paper towels.
10) Wax it again.
11) Buff well with paper towels.
12) Last step. Take a piece of wood with straight edges, and rub the surface of the saw in the direction of cut with the wood, as though you were cross-cutting it.
It's a damn sight more steps than "wash off with kerosene", which is what all the manuals say. But, it leaves a top that is seriously ready for work, and won't need to be screwed with every couple months. I rewax my tops every year or two, and they ain't rusty...
Dave Arbuckle
[email protected]
Many thanks to Bri G at WoodNet, who had the presence of mind to save this, when I didn't ;-)