Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | May 09, 2008 11:53pm | #1

   Depends on the user. Some swear by tape, some swear by dope, and some use both. Me, it kind of depends on which way the wind is blowing, the phases of the moon and whether or not it's a high tide.

   For water (or anything but gas really), I usually try tape (3 wraps) but if that doesn't work, I go for the dope (Rectorseal) over tape.

   For gas, I go straight to the dope.

   The function of both is to lube the threads so they go together better and to seal, tho' lately, I've had trouble with that second part -- they don't make fittings as well as they used to I guess.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

2. 
   Mooney | May 10, 2008 12:02am | #2

   Well for my rental use ;

   I use the Tpaste on drain plumbing inside . Its enough and its faster . Most anything else gets tape . Steel gets pipe dope . All three are in the arsenal. I used to use Ttape on traps and its good but it takes too much time .

   Tim

    

1. 
   davidhawks | May 10, 2008 12:18am | #3

   Hey Tim,

   Why would you use anything on inside traps and/or drains?  They're designed to not need anything additional if installed correctly, no?

   Just curious, not bustn yer chops.The best reward for a job well done is the opportunity to do another.

1. 
   USAnigel | May 10, 2008 02:14am | #4

   Some of the fine threads need a little sealing.

2. 
   ClaysWorld | May 10, 2008 02:46am | #6

   Old school, compression ferrule use pipe dope.

   So if you have a rental and a trap that drips it requires a trip out to fix or look at the damage next rerent.

   Notice how the pvc traps can be re tightened after awhile.

   Or dope the brass tail piece on the waste and overflow.

   So extra step and no drip, done.

1. 
   davidhawks | May 10, 2008 03:02am | #7

   OK cool, just hadn't heard of that b/4.  For me, that small drip means get the BIG pair of Channel-Locks <g>.

   ThanksThe best reward for a job well done is the opportunity to do another.

3. 
   Mooney | May 10, 2008 05:38am | #9

   Well Im not a plumber but I sure do a lot of it . 20 percent of work on rentals is plumbing and I work on every thing I buy.

   Traps are designed to not leak fitted dry but traps are made so cheap somtimes. Ive handled a lot of traps and their not all the same . The ones in the bulk bin at my hardware store are heavy and thick. Those will normally fit dry if theres not a bur in the threads. Normally fine . You can buy a set up thats in a package and it might be very thin . Install one of them and the light over the kitchen sink will light up the cabinet underneath the sink.

   Next thing is everything has to line up perfect with no binds going left or right etc. If the trap is in a bind it likes to drip after your gone which brings up my last point .

   Im working on my houses with renters living in them that dont care. They can shove a box of soap hard against the trap and cause it to leak. Hasnt happened but about a hundred times Ive come back and fixed leaks weeks or months after they started leaking . Thats when I started using Ttape on them but recently gave it up and I use a teflon dressing . Lot less time .

   I inspected and paid attention to  what my plumbers used . I asked several times too. They all use it as dressing and dont have call backs they said  . I learned a lot from tradesmen inspecting. I taught them a lot of code looking it up for them but I was learning to and they taught me a bunch telling me their ways of doing things. I got a lot out of that experience Im still enjoying . My classes never mentioned stuff like that .

   Tim  

1. 
   davidhawks | May 10, 2008 02:34pm | #10

   I inspected and paid attention to  what my plumbers used . I asked several times too. They all use it as dressing and dont have call backs they said  . I learned a lot from tradesmen inspecting. I taught them a lot of code looking it up for them but I was learning to and they taught me a bunch telling me their ways of doing things. I got a lot out of that experience Im still enjoying . My classes never mentioned stuff like that .

   That's the same way I learned most of what I think I know.  Thanks for answering and not taking offense to a legit. Q.

    The best reward for a job well done is the opportunity to do another.

2. 
   cargin | May 10, 2008 04:28pm | #12

   Tim

   Have you thought of doing your kitchen sinks like this article?

   I thought it looked like a good option for rentals and all the bumping around.

   I haven't had a chance to do it yet. But maybe next time.

   Rich

   
1. 
   Mooney | May 10, 2008 05:17pm | #13

   Thanks.

   I was on a job the other day and had to hook up a new sink. The old traps had been discarded somehow during remodel. I had a couple of 5 gallon buckets of pvc fittings on the trailer and various odds and ends . I dumped it out on the floor and worked the puzzle . That was my first time at using schedule 40 fittings. I remember using two Ls and saving space to bring it down against the wall. I went to the truck and found the glue and cleaner . I made a trapout of street Ls . It worked .

   I looked at my southern engineering and laughed out loud . What if someone else seen this and knew I did it ? As crude as it looked there was nothing to loosen and leak. It was tucked against the wall . It wasnt as good as this design though. Not near as good but better than a cheap trap you buy in a package. I never took it any further or gave it any more thought till you came up with this . A jewel of an idea. Ill print it and use it , thanks . Its absolutley the answer to rentals with their abuse.

   Tim  

2. 
   cargin | May 10, 2008 05:29pm | #14

   Tim

   I have problems with the abuse factor where the sink basket attaches to the drain system.

   The package gives you 1 1/2" long drain legs to attach to and they just don't seem to be strong enough.

   This article looked good to me with the hose clamp connections. Looked like it might be strong enough for rentals.

   Rich

3. 
   Mooney | May 10, 2008 06:40pm | #16

   small tail pieces

   There again if you go to the hardware store and buy 12 inch  double end tail pieces they are thicker but you waste a foot. Sad. Everything in the package is thin.

   I like the system 

4. 
   onder | May 10, 2008 10:34pm | #17

   I was doing the kitchen sink in my house when Rex's
   article came out. Looked like a swell idea so I
   went for it.
   Pretty much bulletproof. We shall see how long
   the rubber bits hold up though.
   It isnt cheap but seems to me to be a great idea.

5. 
   cargin | May 10, 2008 10:49pm | #18

   onder

   I intend to try it next time I have a rental sink that needs changing.

   I have had a few drains get "bumped".

   It would be good to have a bulletproof system.

   Rich

3. 
   ErnieK | May 10, 2008 02:29am | #5

   Either will work, often depends on the quality of the threads.  Tape is quick and easy, just be aware there are different tapes out there, some better quality than others.  Yellow tape is used for gas applications for instance. 

   I use tape then paste over if it looks like it could be a problem.

4. 
   RedfordHenry | May 10, 2008 03:43am | #8

   Just in case no one ever shows you the right way to use tape, here's a lesson.  Hold the male threads in your left hand.  Holding the tape in your right hand, start at the top (outer edge) of the threads and wrap it clockwise around the threads.  Double layer the first wrap, then over lap each wrap by about half the width of the tape.  This results in roughly a double layer of tape.  Wrap down to the end of the threads.

5. 
   MSA1 | May 10, 2008 03:30pm | #11

   I used to always use the tape. Then I started getting leaks occasionally.

   I switched to paste but I noticed that if you dont tighten the threads enough, over time the water will push through the paste.

   Happened in my own basement. I hooked up a new laundry tub faucet and didnt want to damage the brass fitting when I screwed the copper MPT into it. Well, didnt get it quite tight enough and now I have a small drip. I tightened it down some more but the putty is already pushed out.

   Guess i'll put fixing that on the list. 

6. 
   renosteinke | May 10, 2008 06:09pm | #15

   I use tape on the male threads, and dope on the female threads. The dope seems to help - whether as a sealer, or just as a lubricant is anyone's guess.

1. 
   splintergroupie | May 11, 2008 12:39am | #19

   <<I use tape on the male threads, and dope on the female threads.>>I'm not gonna say a word....

7. 
   splintergroupie | May 11, 2008 12:40am | #20

   I use tape up to 3/4", then tape+dope on anything larger. Gas always gets dope, regardless of the size. I've never had a doped joint leak, but very occasionally a taped joint will, but tape is less messy so it's worth the occasional hassle. I use four wraps.

   Somewhere Mongo wrote the definitive post on Teflon tape if you wish to do a search.

   Found it for you: http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=78535.12

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/10/2008 5:42 pm by splintergroupie

1. 
   DougU | May 12, 2008 01:53pm | #22

   Thanks for that link.

   As someone that often reaches for tef tape I need to rethink my approach.

   Doug

8. 
   spike999250 | May 11, 2008 12:55am | #21

   I used red high temp rtv on my strainer baskets on my kitchen sink after a month of headaches.  I have also used Perma-Tex Perma Seal along with teflon tape on black iron pipes For water and air Gauranteed no leaks  but nasty to take apart if necessary.