Replies

1. 
   Notchman | Jun 06, 2005 12:52am | #1

   Where are you?  Part of the trick might be finding someone in your area with the skills and equipment to grind the floor.

   Terrazzo is normally done on a slab prior to walls going up.

   And the different materials (brick and grout) may influence the outcome.

   Interesting question, though.  Keep us posted.

1. 
   joekaye | Jun 06, 2005 03:54pm | #6

   Thanks, WORMDRIVE, for the info. The house is located in Pamplin, Va. J.K.

1. 
   Notchman | Jun 06, 2005 04:31pm | #11

   Here's a link that might get you dialed in to some expertise:

   http://www.ntma.com

1. 
   joekaye | Jun 07, 2005 08:01pm | #16

   Thanks, Wormdrive. J.K.

2. 
   DanH | Jun 06, 2005 01:01am | #2

   A lot would depend on the specific composition of the brick and mortar/grout. Also, one would want to be certain of the thickness of the brick before beginning -- some of it is really little thicker than tile.

   But it's possible. It would be ideal if the HO has some bricks from the project that could be used in a test, ideally enough to dummy up a 2-foot square or so test section.

1. 
   joekaye | Jun 06, 2005 04:02pm | #7

   Thanks, DanH. I do believe the bricks are full thickness. J. K.

3. 
   DanH | Jun 06, 2005 01:03am | #3

   Another possibility would be a commercial floor sealer. Wouldn't remove the waviness, but would make it easier to clean. HO might not like the shine, though.

   Again, though, you'd have to check for compatibility between sealer and brick -- sealing the brick could cause it to spall, especially if there's moisture coming up from below,

1. 
   joekaye | Jun 06, 2005 04:03pm | #8

   Dear DanH;

   this floor was well sealed, but it's still a pain. J. K.

4. 
   WayneL5 | Jun 06, 2005 05:19am | #4

   Sounds intriguing.  I wonder if it could be ground flat, then grouted, then just touched with a fine grit to make it smooth.

1. 
   joekaye | Jun 06, 2005 04:06pm | #9

   Dear WAYNEL5;

   Thanks for your reply. I'm thinking just grind it all down flat (less than a 1/4" should do it). If some of the grout doesn't survive, then it could be regrouted flush. J.K.

5. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 06, 2005 06:35am | #5

   Talk with a good large old tile contractor. I went into a showroom that was advertising natural stone tiles, and their demo floor was beautifully flat with no lippage between tiles.  I asked how long it took to lay that way, and they said they used a floor grinder after the tiles were down.  Some of the better rental places might have floor grinders.

    

   I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

1. 
   joekaye | Jun 06, 2005 04:07pm | #10

   Thanks Ed, your saying just what I want to hear. J.K.

1. 
   DanH | Jun 06, 2005 04:49pm | #12

   The main hazards here are:-- The brick isn't solid enough to stand up to the grinding -- it cracks and spalls.-- The brick won't grind evenly, due to being exceptionally soft in spots.-- Once you grind the outer "crust" off the brick you discover the inside is soft and won't stand up to foot traffic very well.But these are calculated risks, and you can reduce your exposure by trying a sample first, using some spare bricks from the same batch (if available). And it would be good to plan the job so that if it isn't working out the area you try it in can be somehow reworked with a different flooring without looking like a patch job.

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 06, 2005 11:45pm | #13

   That the brick would be unevenly hard or expose voids in the process would be my concern mainly, if th ebricks are thick enough for this.I find the idea intriguing, but would definitely want a test section first 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 07, 2005 03:55am | #14

   'nother thought ...

   The Lowes and HD near me have rental shops, and one of them (I forget which) rents a floor grinder.  Works like a floor buffer, but instead of a pad it has several 'stones' that grind down the high spots in a concrete floor.  It should work well for you.

   I agree in principle about grinding the bricks and exposing soft spots, but since all you want to do is make them smooth, all you need to take off is the top 1/16", and I'm not sure that would be deep enough to cause a problem.  Anyway, it's not my floor and not my problem if you grind too deep, so I say go for it.  :)

    I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

2. 
   joekaye | Jun 07, 2005 08:07pm | #19

   Dear Ed;

   Thanks for the grinder source. I agree that very little material needs to be removed and testing an inconspicuous spot is the why to go. J.K.

3. 
   joekaye | Jun 07, 2005 08:04pm | #18

   Thanks,piffin. Also good advice. I read you in FHB all the time. J.K.

2. 
   joekaye | Jun 07, 2005 08:03pm | #17

   Thanks, DanH, good advice. J.K.

6. 
   kostello | Jun 07, 2005 11:15am | #15

   someone here posted pictures of a device they rigged up for grinding concrete a good while back. and i can't remember who.

   they got an old floor polisher an attatched 4 or 5 bricks to the bottom and had at it. it think it finish was fairly good but the dust was really bad!!!!!

   maybe someone else will remember who it was

1. 
   joekaye | Jun 07, 2005 08:09pm | #20

   Dear Kostello;

   That's an idea. It's nice to see there are people out there that are crazier than me- that's what makes the world go round. J.K.