Can anyone provide some advice on tools and/or techniques for working 16′ long T&G 1×6 v-grove boards on a ceiling installation. I am thinking that (a) there MUST be a tool designed to grab onto the rafter and provide enough purchase to push a board home, and (b) there OUGHT to be an impact nailer like a flooring nailer to get that last tight push while nailing. Meanwhile I am finding it takes almost a half-hour to get a tight installation for each 30 foot long course. Surely someone (maybe most everyone) has found ways to do better than this?
Any and all help greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Andrew
Replies
Rip a scrap piece of the T & G about an inch wide (tongue side); cut some wooden wedges; screw a block to the rafters; place the grooved piece against the plank; drive the wedges opposed between the block and your grooved piece.
It also helps a lot to have a second person to help....can be a tough job alone, especially if the wood is squirrely.
Thanks Notchman,
That's pretty much exactly what we've been doing, although I think your suggestion of wegdes will help a lot because I've not found a tool that can get a good grab on the rafter AND move the board more than 1/8" before falling free (the best I could manage is to cut the block of T&G material that you suggested, push the block as tight as I can with a chisel and then drive a self-tapping screw home through the block into the rafter, before going onto the next rafter. Then, all the way back, pulling each block out and using the chisel to squeexe the board tight while using a power nailer. Like I said.......SLOW.
Thanks,
Andrew
Strike a line at a given distance from your existing finished course. Screw a 2x4 to that line. Cut a pc of 1/2 or maybe 3/4 ply that's just a bit more than the distance between. Screw the T/G block to one end of that ply. Set the block, spring in the other end of the ply. Cut the width of a single course off the ply springbd and go to the next course.
Maybe.
Have you tried that decking tool that uses the joist as a fulcrum?
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Edited 7/6/2005 9:42 am ET by calvin
Edited 7/6/2005 10:11 am ET by calvin
Calvin,
I have thought about using a deck tool, but I've only seen REALLY large tools (like a tool that you could use on a deck without bending over) which would be too cumbersome to use upside-down. Are you thinking of a smaller tool? I'd love to hear about it if you are.
Thanks,
Andrew
Just did a 20x16 ceiling - solo -- here is that I did -- get one end in good against the tongue of the preceding board and double nail it though the tongue of the new board. Then because one side is good and tight, work your way down the new board tapping on a scrap and nailing as you go -- works great and looks just as good
I edited above to include a 2x4 screwed to the parallel line.
Here's the tool I was referring to.
http://www.bowrench.com/Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin,
Awesome. Thanks a lot
Andrew
Shorter boards are a whole lot easier to work with than long one. Try cutting your 16's to a 10 and a 6 and it will make the job much easier.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
I agree with the above. I just finished a 3rd floor vaulted ceiling of about 900 sq ft using 1X4 T&G Clear Cedar. I learned a few things, and I'd suggest the following
1. keep a scrap groove to test your 'next to be placed' tongue. I found a few boards with tongues that were too fat. Better to fix that before you put the piece up, or you may tend to beat up the tongue edge of the next piece, trying to get it in.
2. Sand before putting up. Lot easier to do flat than overhead.
3. I put up some 16 footers...a real pain, and almost requires two people. Yes, you can nail one end, but you'll have to temporarily support the other end. And your nailed end will have to be exactly where it needs to go. Most of my pieces were 10', and even that, for a solo installer, can be a challange.
4. To push joints together, I'd simply put a clamp on the joist just above the reluctant board and then use one of those one-handed squeeze clamps with the end that's reversible, so as you tighten, the jaws spread apart...one jaw on the board and the other on the fixed clamp to push ajgainst. With pressure on the board, I'd then tap it with a block. If it still doesn't go, then either the boards T&G aren't aligning or there's a block. This is one of the reasons to check tongues before putting the board up.
5. I nailed with 2" 15 ga PC nailer. Worked fine. The PC FN250 gun is adjustable, so I got the nails to set just the right amount. With a little practice, you'll figure out where to shoot the nail at the base of the tongue so it can't be seen.
BruceM