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I take a similar approach by Bolting the ledger to the house, but I find it unneeded to place another Rim onto that. I simply attach my joists to the ledger w/hangers and double up all the outside bands. If it is supported properly by the posts and footings, it is not going anywhere.
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I take a similar approach by Bolting the ledger to the house, but I find it unneeded to place another Rim onto that. I simply attach my joists to the ledger w/hangers and double up all the outside bands. If it is supported properly by the posts and footings, it is not going anywhere.
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Rick...Normally we go at it from a different direction,
we first install the ledger, so that flashing can be incorporated. Sometimes have to strip siding...sometimes can just tuck the flashing under the starter strip. The joists then bear upon the ledger and are fastened to the wall as well...HOWEVER...the footings and posts must be braced in such a way as not to cause stress at the house connection...
Each segment must be overbuilt to take into account deterioration of the members over time...
The flashing will keep the ledger dry, and if you install a strip of ice and water seal between the flashings and blocks...that will help as well. Foil flashing will also assist in deterring rott between the boards and joists...Pre staining will again increase durability.
A 6" flashing under the decking at the wall will help the joists stay dry as well.
Good luck.
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I believe there is no such thing as "overkill" if the quality of your work lets you look in the mirror to shave and not have to avoid looking into your own eyes.
Pride in your own work - it's a legacy thing.
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So tell me, why use a ledger board at all on a deck? I just poured three extra piers for mine, since I didn't want to mess with the mix of materials the back of my house is made of.
It seems to me that the time spent figuring out how to install a ledger board exactly right under all these different circumstances could be avoided. Because you still have to support the other end of the deck, so why not just build it free standing?
*This has come up before. Because a ledger is fast, easy, and strong. In our case, I would have had to cut through pavement to sink piers. But I hear lots of guys prefer free-standing.
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So I'll steal the title from an interesting book. The reading of contemporary warning labels could lead one to believe that the evolution of the human species has peaked.How about "Keep hands and genitals away from moving chain"? Duhhh...
Actually,I am responing to a post by CaseyR regarding the failure of decks, or more specifically the ledger. Nailed only? Ask this carpenter to find another trade. This would justify litigation to assist in that decision.
In my area (Lake county,IL) there have been several decks that have fallen away from the house. This goes beyond the "low bidder syndrome".
I believe that the ledger is the most important member of a deck. I often spend an entire day installing one. All siding is removed(1 1/2" above joist elev.) Any insulation/celotex replaced at exposed area with plywood. 14" flashing installed to lap over siding below. Ledger hung with lag bolts;spaced off building 1/4-3/8 with generous quanities of polyurethanre
caulk in holes,on washers,on end of lag bolts to seal penetrations. After ledger is attached, carriage bolts w/washers go thru rim joist. (once again, caulk is not spared. L fashing is installed
over ledger to extend 1" beyond joist/ledger connection. Overkill or the pride in seeing my deck still solid in 15-20yrs?
Looking for better answers, Rick
*Rick, don't forget the posts and footings, I've seen posts set on 4" solids. Undersized posts, and bad post spacing will fail with or without a good ledger.TC