I am getting ready to remove the drywall above our shower stall and replace it with Durock or Hardibacker.
What’s the best way to deal with the nailing flange on the fiberglass stall?
When I did this same project at our old house, the flange caused the drywall to kick out and the tiles in the first course were not plumb with the wall. It was really noticeable in the corners.
I originally thought of ripping shims to match the thickness of the flange but that presents a problem in feathering the new backer boards into the old drywall.
My other though was to use 1/4″ backer board cut my shims to 1/4″ so the total thickness is a good 1/2″…. I’m just not sure that 1/4″ backer will work well in this application.
Any thoughts on the 1/4 backer approach or maybe other suggestions?
Thanks!
Replies
I use hardie backer and it is basically ply's of material. I split the edge going over the fiberglass flange with a utility knife, and make that go up about 3/4" to 1" then score the back of the hardie and break off the piece. That makes up for the thickness of the fiberglass, doesn't affect the hardie at all and doesn't screw up any walls, windows, etc that furing out would do.
I thought about just using a tablesaw to cut a rabbet on the backer but Hardie and Durock both hinted that the material was too hard...
I like your approach better... no dust, no saw and it's easy!
Thanks!
I use a circ with a concrete-rated cut-off disc in it to cut ½" Durock. I have also been known to run the stuff through the table saw set up the same way on occasions where I needed to rip numerous strips all the same width. It cuts okay, but it's very very dusty. Wear a mask and don't do this in the house, LOL....
If you are anal and want the rabbet to be just so, a saw is the way to go. But a knife cut and a bit of chopping with an old worthless chisel will get you there almost as well.
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
If you look at a Tile Standards book, you will see that in many instances they recommend just standing the board on the tub and filling the void with tile glue. I've been doing that for 25 years.
"filling the void with tile glue"What is that? Are you talking about tile mastic?
Yes, We tape all the joints with mesh tape, fill the void with mastic and mesh tape over the top.
Craigmic,
How big is the gap your filling? If my shower is like others I've seen I'm looking at 3/4"-1".... that seems like a lot to fill with mastic.
Chuck
yes it is 3/4 to 1 inch
Building out with mastic? Cutting rabbets? You've got to be kidding!
You're right, there's a problem when you try to add concrete backer board over the shower flange. But think about it: water runs down the wall and sits on the edge of the pan. Why make the most important part of the installation the weakest?
If you are removing some of the dry wall, why not remove all of it? I have been in the ceramic tile business for 25 years, and that's what I did in my own home. Add 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 material on top of the studs to bring it flush with the flange. You can tile to the ceiling, or switch to drywall and paint.
I would also recommend setting the tile with thinset, not mastic. And don't forget a nice neat silicone caulk joint at all incorners and at the shower base. You'll find that doing things right the first time means that you only do it once.
I'm not sure if we are talking about the same thing here.... I just want to tile about 2 foot above a fiberglass shower stall... if I read your note correctly it seems like you are talking about tiling the entire stall from the pan up....
As I said in my original note I can't shim unless I use 1/4 backer and I wasn't sure that would work in my application.
I do agree with you though... given the choice I'd shim the wall and build the entire stall with backer and tile.... I just don't have that option.
Chuck