Replies

1. 
   sledgehammer | Dec 20, 2005 02:55am | #1

   Personally I'd take the laminate off the walls if possible. You never really know how well it's stuck and if it decides to let go at a later date... well everything is wasted.

   I use mastic for kitchen backsplashes.

1. 
   rasconc | Dec 20, 2005 03:15am | #2

   Agree, but what about screwing hardibacker over the lam?  I told son just what you said when he asked.  I was not too cool with mastic or thinset over the contact adhesive residue.  I just did a 12x12 tile floor where I broke a tile in the installation, could not believe how hard it was to pull it up just after putting it down.  Thinset is pretty awesome.

1. 
   EricPaulson | Dec 20, 2005 03:19am | #3

   If you are talking about a sheet of laminate glued to the BS, I would guess that it will come right off. Never saw one that didn't.

   Use mastic right over the old glue no problem.[email protected]

    

    

   It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been

    

    

    

1. 
   rasconc | Dec 20, 2005 05:10am | #6

   Thanks.  More what I was thinking.  Was not sure about mastic over contact cement.

2. 
   sledgehammer | Dec 20, 2005 05:20am | #7

   Thinset is awesome, use it if you want... nothing wrong but not what I would use. I don't think there is a downside for your application just overkill and a bit more pita IMHO. If adding cement board and tile to your application will not screw up overhangs... counter ends .... windows ... trim  or doorways... go for it, again no downside there.  Every application is different, if you are questionable about the install I'd remove the wallboard and replace with 1/2" cement board, then use thinset... you'll have a top quality job and no worries... ideally what I look for, but rarely what a customer is willing to pay for.

1. 
   rasconc | Dec 20, 2005 05:50pm | #11

   Thanks, I agree, it is not what most people are willing to pay for.  I am going to istall the counter top and loan tools and free advice to #1 (and only) son.  He and one of his sidekicks will install.  Looks like it will be peel off laminate and mastic.  As you pointed out I could see them running in to some build up issues using backer over lam or drywall.

   We bought both our kids new stoves for Christmas and on this one I have to mod the cabinets as it had a drop-in.  Decided that this was the time to update the whole thing.

   Have a great Christmas.

2. 
   DonK | Dec 20, 2005 03:50am | #4

   If you need to get the new countertop under the old backsplash, just take it off and get it over with. Start clean, it's one less thing to worry about. When you are trying to push the new one under and there are nails, screws and other obstructions and crud formations, the annoyance factor will come into play. Why bother? What do you gain by leaving the old one in ?

   Don K.

   EJG Homes      Renovations - New Construction - Rentals

1. 
   rasconc | Dec 20, 2005 05:08am | #5

   The old is not a post form, it has a flat 90 deg from counter top to laminate (aka formica).  Not sure leaving a layer of formica  would present a problem. Putting 1/4 hardibacker over it after putting countertop on should not present a problem. 

1. 
   DonK | Dec 20, 2005 03:07pm | #9

   Rasconc -

   I'm a little confused about the new counter. You said it is post formed, but then you talk about a tile backsplash. Are you going above the post formed backsplash with tile? Post formed to me has the built in curve on the front and in the rear, so that there's a cove where the wall meets the counter portion.

   Also, like someone else asked - is the existing backsplash built out on plywood or flakeboard? I assumed it was. If it's directly on the drywall, then it's much less of a problem since it's thin.

   Don K.

   EJG Homes      Renovations - New Construction - Rentals

1. 
   rasconc | Dec 20, 2005 05:41pm | #10

   I am going to have to finish my posting before I finish my second martini.  I seem to be unable to communicate clearly (:-).

   The existing is just square edge stuff.  The "backsplash" is only laminate attached to what is I would assume to be drywall.  The house is in Georgia and I am in NC and did not pay that much attention except that it is harvest gold.  It is not a 4 or 6 inch backsplash in the usual type.  He plans to put the post formed with built in backsplash and then tile above it up to the upper cabinets. 

   Hope that clears it up.

   Thanks for your input!

    

3. 
   piko | Dec 20, 2005 09:09am | #8

   If the laminate isn't on plywood, just peel it off. Use acetone if it gets too difficult. Now, this isn't easy to admit to, but even if I've sunk the claws of my hammer behind the laminate - a little bit of mud and tape will hide the nasties.

   If you have a problem with contact cement, stick the tiles on with construction adhesive - similar OV materials. But I use mastic normally - after all, you're not walking on the tiles, nor getting them sopping wet. And it'll be easy to pull them off in 10 years time when they are passe.

   All the best...

   To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.

    

1. 
   rasconc | Dec 20, 2005 05:51pm | #12

   Thanks for the good advice, what I was thinking but needed confirmation.

   Have a great Christmas.

   Bob

4. 
   steve | Dec 28, 2005 01:50am | #13

   peel the old laminate off the walls, using a heat gun if needed to sften to contact cement, if the walls are drywall then some of the paper wil probably come off too

   the tile can be placed directly on the wall using mastic, extra mastic can fill really damaged areas

   i have installed many tile jobs like this on everthing from severly damaged drywall to perfect brand new plaster and never had a problem

1. 
   rasconc | Dec 28, 2005 02:51am | #14

   Thanks, peeled it off, broke in many pieces and took a little paper with it.  I told son it was his from here!  Left him trowels, sponges, tile saw, and best wishes.

   Bob