I realize that the proper way to lay tiles over existing is to remove the old tiles first. Problem is that the old tiles from the 50’s are probably asbestos and removing them properly is a huge pain and expense. If the old tiles are tight to the floor is it acceptable to tile over? Is it legal? Or should I just bite the bullet and have the tiles removed? I realize that any defects will telegraph through the new tiles. Thanks. Jimmy.
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Greetings Jinny,
as a first time poster Welcome to Breaktime.
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.
Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.
However, that subject has been addressed here on Breaktime a number of different times in the past.
In the event you fail to receive the information you desire, you might find it in the archives.
If you scroll down in the lower left corner of your screen there is a search function that will take you to previous threads dealing with whatever you type in the search bar.
If you type in 'asbestos tile' or other keywords of the subject matter you'll get a supply of data from those old threads.
Cheers
40,000 Americans are injured by toilets each year.
Hey rez...I think you invented the BUMP!The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
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I had the old asphalt tiles in my house and was told they probably contained asbestos. (You can get them tested, but I didn't bother.) I just put luan plywood over them and carpeted over that.
Are you talking vinyl tiles? Others will probably be along to give you better advice, but you are right in saying they will telegraph any imperfections. I think the thicker "composite" tiles won't, but I would still consider some sort of underlayment under them to give a good base.
I deal with asbestos on almost every remodel I run into.
When it comes to flooring a lot of times it's not the tile it's the adhesive which I always thought was strange. But my abatement workers say flooring isn't that big of a deal. They told me scrape in chunks do NOT grind or sand use a spray bottle with a good misting action keep it slightly damp & spray the air often if you see dust that's a bad thing. & wear a mask.
You`re talking vinyl tiles, yes?
If floor height transition is of no concern, luan over `em and lay your new tiles. Tiling over, is both acceptable and legal.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
if it's that big a problem ... just stick the new over the old.
a leveler will help hide the embossment.
I prefer "Dependable" brand ... it's hard to find around here ... but it's what GrandPa used! something with a latex additive might help the adhesion though.
to overcome the "bleed thru" ... I'd focus on getting the best quality/thickest new tiles. Put the demo money back into the surface. If the existing pattern isn't too deep ... and the new are a good quality ... it'll be no problem.
Now ... U thinking new self stick or commercial quality tiles that'll be set in a troweled on adhesive?
the "non adhesive backed" tiles would be the best idea ... as that troweled adhesive will help fill some of those embossment voids.
U will be well served by avoiding HD and Lowes and shopping at a real trade/flooring supply store. Their sales deck should be able to work U thru each and every step.
and again ... we're talking vinyl tiles here right? Not a ceramic overlay?
and to back check ... how would the floor heights be affected by laying down some good exterior 1/4 luan and working off a fresh/clean subfloor?
coupla transitions strips ... rip a small bit of the bottoms of a coupla doors ...
1/4" isn't much to deal with if it's the first overlay as far as appliances go ...
what's the situation?
and why not a full sheet product as opposed to tiles?
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Thanks for the bump...and all the advice. Planning on putting down vinyl, not ceramic. Was thinking about the "industrial" type of tile used in schools, office buildings etc., not the light weight self stick jobs. Most of the tiles are really stuck down well, just some perimeter tiles loose due to a now corrected water problem. Again, thanks for the advice. Jimmy. (refugee from knots)
For vinyl tiles, you can use a latex modified portland cement embossing leveller. I use Ardex brand. About $10 for a 10 pound bag, it will do 30 sf at a full 1/8", and if you use it as a skim coat it goes a long way and dries fast. It can be feathered to zero.
HD and Lowes sell a commercial tile by Armstrong. It's 1/8" or maybe 3/32" thick. They only stock about 4 colors. It looks different than most vinyl tile they sell cuz the color goes all the way through the tile, and it has square cut edges. Find a real tile store and they will probably stock most of the 40 colors. Mannington also sells a similar commercial tile. Done properly, they will last dang near forever.
Get the joints really tight.
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