*
Good morning, I am seeking a solution for a reccuring problem I have had with grout joint seperation/cracking at wall to floor intersections. Some of this must be due to lumber shrinkage and floor deflection. My solution in the past has been to caulk this joint with a similar to grout colored caulk, but have never been happy with doing so. I install 1/2 inch concrete board over the subfloor, set in thinset and screwed down. On walls in dry areas I generally just use mastic to set tiles directly on drywall. In wet areas I attach concrete boad to framing. I would appreciate anyones thougths on this matter. I do not like caulk as a finishing agent, and am trying to produce a more long term solution. Producing a zero deflection floor can be difficult in some situations, and waiting for lumber to cure on some jobs is not practical. On a current job I have built a jaccuzzi base out of 2×4’s and sheathed it with 3/4 ply wood glued and screwed and applied concrete board over that. I have done the same in the past and have still had seperation problems at the wall/deck intersection. Any help would be appreciated, I am tired of turning out what I consider to be a substandard product. Thanks, Steve
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Michael Hindle explores the efficacy of deep energy retrofits and discusses essential considerations for effective climate mitigation.
Featured Video
Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With ViewrailHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
Steve:
I guess the bad news for you is that you are not going to be able to avoid cracking in the wall/floor joint if you continue to use grout. The differences in movement between the floor and wall are what causes this, and the appropriate material to use in this joint is a flexible sealant.
Many manufacturers make caulks color matched to their grouts. One other option would be to use a trim piece from Schluter. The only limitation here is the lack of color choices.
Dave
*Thanks for the input Dave, Guess I was hoping for some installation technique that would prevent this. Thanks again, Steve
*Damn, that was close. I just saved you guys from a run-on post. Here's my watered down...Either do what Creature suggested with the Schluter strip (or other material); butt the tile tight (eliminates the joint, may work, may look crappy, depending on the job); throw in design element to hide the joint; or continue with flexible gooey type material.
*
Good morning, I am seeking a solution for a reccuring problem I have had with grout joint seperation/cracking at wall to floor intersections. Some of this must be due to lumber shrinkage and floor deflection. My solution in the past has been to caulk this joint with a similar to grout colored caulk, but have never been happy with doing so. I install 1/2 inch concrete board over the subfloor, set in thinset and screwed down. On walls in dry areas I generally just use mastic to set tiles directly on drywall. In wet areas I attach concrete boad to framing. I would appreciate anyones thougths on this matter. I do not like caulk as a finishing agent, and am trying to produce a more long term solution. Producing a zero deflection floor can be difficult in some situations, and waiting for lumber to cure on some jobs is not practical. On a current job I have built a jaccuzzi base out of 2x4's and sheathed it with 3/4 ply wood glued and screwed and applied concrete board over that. I have done the same in the past and have still had seperation problems at the wall/deck intersection. Any help would be appreciated, I am tired of turning out what I consider to be a substandard product. Thanks, Steve