I want to put tile on a kitchen counter top(square edge,laminate on particle bd. in good shape)Whats wrong with using a tile mastic or glue?I also want to go up the wall(drywall) 6 inches for backsplash.Can I glue that as well?I didn`t see the need for backer bd or concrete bd but I wanted to make sure and ask this forum.Also,can you cut tile(small pieces stuck to a mat) with a wet saw?
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Bill: I'm interested to see folks' response to yer post...so helping to "bump" it up.
Years ago, I watched a counter laminate installer/renovator remove old laminate pretty readily by heating up thru the laminate, the underlying glue, by using a propane torch.... Took him all of about 10 minutes for a 20' run.
I've installed lots of tile in my life already, always in past was new construction applications though. Instinctively, doesn't strike me that is worth the effort of doing the tiling if you're going to skimp or skip on the surface prep... but I dunno....
BTW: In my kitchen, I already got what you want (tile countertops) and am gearing to go, at least for the kitchen island, towards what you want to eliminate (laminate), for the simple reasons (1) I want/need a smooth surface SOMEWHERE in the kitchen for rolling out dough, etc...and (2) this house I'm in doesn't deserve the higher end solid surface mat'ls...and(3) my years at this locale are definitely numbered.
Laminate is fairly slippery stuff. It has no "tooth" to grab the glue/mastic/mortar. If you use a power sander to rough it up, you should be fine. The backsplash should be OK, so long as the paint on the drywall is flat. If not, sand it too.
And in both cases, the sruface must be inflexible. If it flexes more than 1 in 360, then it's not strong enough.
Yes, a wet saw will cut tile, even the small stuff. But be aware that the net/webbing is held to the tile with a very small amount of a water-soluble adhesive. So, if you plan to cut a full sheet, you should be prepared for whatever will happen when it falls apart after the first three inches goes under the blade.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
Bill I agree with both these guys. On one hand the laminate will come up fairly easy because the glue is heated. This technique, by the way, also works for vinyl tile on the floor, if you ever have to change one, heat it up and pull it right up. Nonetheless it is stuck down if you don't heat it up. One thing to take into account though, if you do go with easy removal is, the glue residue left behind. Not a good thing. You'll need to address that issue. on the other hand if the laminate is secure and you are 110% sure of that. Then you can go with sanding for prep and then tile. Personally, if it were my own house and I wasn't planning on going anywhere for a while I would put down the CBU. It's a counter top not a floor so your only talking maybe 3 or 4 pieces ( I'm guessing), so for the security of a well bonded tile I would spend the little extra on a couple pieces of CBU 1/4" and not worry about it anymore.