I have some tile to install in a kitchen that will have hardwood flooring installed up to the edge. If i put down 1/4″ inch cbu the tile will be lower than the hard wood by 1/8 to 3/16th. if i put down 1/2″ cbu the tile will be 1/8 to 3/16 higher.
Tiles measure 5/16″ thick
The slight descrepancy in higth is because im not sure how much the morter will gain me.
Question #1 wich is worse ? lower or higher?
#2 If i go with the 1/4″ can i build up the first row of tiles about an 1/8″? to get closure to the 3/4″ hardwood.
What would u do?
Replies
Having the wood high could make a fragile edge. Having the tile high would make an ugly edge. Could you make some sort of beveled wood trim from a piece of flooring stock, and go down from the floor to the lower tile, once the tile is in and you can see exactly?
Building up the thinset by back-buttering might work, but I don't do enough tile work to know if it's a bad idea.
"Outlining" the tile with a wooden border might look nice, anyway
Forrest
Have the same situation in my house. I just made a transition piece that overlapped tile and hardwood. Left a gap between tile and hardwood approx.1" and made a piece that was virtually a T shape piece that went to subfloor and rabbeted out top of T piece on underside to match differences in tile and hardwood and overlapped by 1/2" each way.
i agree...a nice transition piece will give it a finished look...u might check the hardwood supplier, i'm sure they have a couple different sizes/styles...then u can just go ahead and lay the tile evenly...
You might consider putting 1/4" plywood underlayment to the kitchen subfloor and then use Schlueter Ditra for your tile underlay.
Since the Ditra is only about 1/8" thick (and really much more user friendly and enjoyable to use than CBU) you will have an easier time matching the surface elevation of the tile and the wood floor.
Between the tile and wood floor, you can use the metal transition strips that Schlueter offers or one of the other suggestions posted here.
If you "build up the first row" by 1/8" you're probably going to have to build up the rest as well. or it would be very easy to feel the difference in height.
Depending on your tile, it might work better to have it a touch high. Many times tiles with significant rounded edges work well a bit higher than the wood. If you go this route and use the 1/2" hardi, cut the trowel size down to the smallest that will still get full coverage and allow enough movement to get them all flat. If the floor is dead flat all the tiles need is enough thinset for a good bond.
If you tiles have fairly sharp corners then I'd go with the 1/4" hardi and use a larger notch size. Going from 1/4"x1/4" to 3/8"x3/8" will get you at least 1/16" additional height and 1/2"x1/2" would get the 1/8".
Beware of the urge to use 1/8" sheet goods under the hardi for more height or the extra time will probably hurt more than the cost of additional thinset. It's also one more layer that needs to be put down with thinset, or the slight gaps (that are always there when sheetgoods are stacked) will contribute to the floor essentially flexing under the tile.
Do the counters allow enough room for 1/2" hardi or would that complicate the dishwasher removal? How about trim? Doors? Other floor transitions?
My guess is that you're be better off with the 1/4" and more thinset.
Theres no doors to worry about and cabs have not been installed yet. ill make sure d.w. has clearance
I think ill do a little of both with some test pieces i.e. larger notched trowel with a slight transition strip.
Although I generally do not like transition strips, the hardwood has not been completed yet. maybe a slight bevel on the table saw with the oak cut on edge will be enough.
was really hoping to not have more than 1/16" difference.
Also the Ditra was mentioned, might give that some thought.
Thanks all, will check back for any other ideas.
Reread your post.
I was planing on using 1/4x1/4" trowel.
The tiles are 13"x13" so i can go with a 3/8"x or maybe a 1/2"x ??
If thats the case, this could definitely help w/ a little stiffer mud.
You can experiment with different trowel notch depths. The size of the tile also determines the notch sizing. I normally would use a 3/8" notch for 12x12 or smaller and if larger, a 1/2" notch.
If I need to gain some height I would mix the thinset a little stiffer.
You will also be embedding your underlayment in thinset so you can count on gaining some ground there.