Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 04, 1999 10:24am | #1

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   Carbide grit hole saw- over in the tile section. There are also various blades for handsaws, hacksaws etc. Rotozip says it would work, but that is the kind of application where it takes the whole job to develop any finesse with a tool like that.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 05, 1999 03:22am | #2

   *For a limited # I'd agree w/the carbide grit hole saw. I've had good results. Wall grade tiles should be no problem. Floor tiles can be harder. Wear eye protection and dust mask. Water helps keep the dust down and cools the cutting edge. A drill press helps keep the drill plumb to the work and both maximize and control pressure. Back up the work with wood. Have some extra tiles because they can crack. They tell me for lots of holes diamond hole bits are better but they cost a lot.

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   Guest_ | Apr 05, 1999 07:04am | #3

   *I would agree with lonecat on the roto-zip. Also, in a woman's hands, which are generally smaller and weaker, the thing might get away on you as I would guess it would want to skid. Did some of this over Christmas vacation with a hole saw. In a 3/8" Milwaukee it went slowly to say the least. A drill press would be ideal - but if it is located away from the construction site, you are sure to put the first holes in the wrong places and have to make two trips. Good luck.Dennis

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 05, 1999 07:07am | #4

   *Just re-read your post. For irregular shapes, rent a diamond saw. They are messy, but cut neatly and don't grab the work. I am told that they are fairly safe as well as the diamond won't cut skin unless you lean into it. With the saw, if you were willing to accept an extra gout line, you can cut the tile centered over where you want the hole and whitle out the hole with the diamond blade. This would be the fastest and easiest. Dennis

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   Guest_ | Apr 05, 1999 09:37am | #5

   *Pamela, if you mean the large circle for the lav and not the small hole for the faucets, mark the curve on the tile, cut a series of parallel cuts toward the curve with a tile saw, break them out with a nipper. If they are going to be exposed , you can then dress the cut with a stone. Or, you can get a round tile blade to fit a hacksaw frame. With this, time and elbow grease you can make a nice curved cut.

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 05, 1999 10:34am | #6

   *Mike: additionally, if she is looking to do supply stubs... use the drill operated carbide hole saw.Immerse the tile in water to barely cover, and drill away. (use a backer of wood) The water immersion will lessen the potential for heat cracking of the tiles.Pamela: If you use a corded (110/220v) drill, saw, grinder, etc... be absolutely certain to plug into a GFCI protected outlet when using a power tool around water.

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 05, 1999 11:21am | #7

   *I once had a tile cutting saber saw blade which I never had occasion to use before it was lost. I now have a Bosch saber saw and have not found a tile blade with a Bosch shank.

4. 
   Guest_ | Apr 05, 1999 05:12pm | #8

   *For the large opening in quite a few tiles, say to tile in around an oval basin, maybe the Roto-Zip would be good. After the tiles are bedded and the mastic or thin set is cured, cut a plywood template outside the desired opening and use the Roto-Zip like a router to even up all those rough cuts to the desired profile.

5. 
   Guest_ | Apr 06, 1999 04:16am | #9

   *Cuts slow, real slowDennis

6. 
   Guest_ | Apr 07, 1999 01:01pm | #10

   *I was taught to use two hammers. One framer upside down on the floor with the tile balanced over the face, the other a small pointed "tack" type hammer is used to chip away the hole.

7. 
   Guest_ | Apr 08, 1999 08:44am | #11

   *Mark, we know the water swirls down the drain opposite of the northern hemisphere, but... In the land of Oz...Do the tiles fall glazed side down, or mastic side down? And is it safe to hit hammer face to hammer face?Just wondering.

8. 
   Guest_ | Apr 08, 1999 08:25pm | #12

   *I did my kitchen's tile back splash with a diagonal drop to the countertop on each end. This was the same area previously covered with glued on laminate, in the style of 1930's kitchens. For a DIYer article in our local newspaper, I used every method to cut and shape irregular and small tiles I could find without resorting to a rental diamond saw. This included the standard tile cutting board, tile nippers, a carbide sabre saw blade, hand file, and a Dremel tool with a tile cutting bit. The last was the same as the Roto-Zip concept, but with a more manageable tool. This was on wall tiles only, as floor tiles will definitely require a diamond cutter. Anyway, the Dremel tool was the most versatile, though I would often use the nippers to get close to the line, then finish with the Dremel tool. The sabre saw worked best for corner cuts. Lots of dust, and the Dremel's motor eventually lunched itself, but it was still under warranty -- Dremel sent me a new one, no questions asked.

9. 
   Guest_ | Apr 13, 1999 12:10pm | #13

   *George,Murphys law applys in both hemispheres. If you drop a piece of buttered toast , which way up is it going to land? You may say you have a 50/50 chance but I'm sure the odds are not that equal. In any case if I drop a tile it's usually in the bath which is why I now make sure I've got a good thick layer of old blankets in the bath before I start.As for hitting hammer faces together. Definetly not a problem as long as I'm not around.

10. 
    Guest_ | Apr 27, 1999 08:23pm | #14

    *Just saw some low cost diamond hole saws in Lee Valley / Veritas catalog. Recommended for tile. Hole sizes 1/4" - 1" .800-871-8158. http://www.leevalley.comCat#s 29J01.0? (last digit varies by dia.)

2. 
   Pamela_Brodie | Apr 27, 1999 08:24pm | #15

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   What do you recommend for drilling circles out of ceramic tiles to accommodate plumbing fixtures?

   Would a rotozip be good for this purpose, and for other shaping of ceramic tiles to fit in irregular places?