I just finished putting hardibacker onto the kitchen wall above the kitchen counter. The counter is 11 ft wide, with the kitchen sink in the center. On the wall are four square windows, 2′ x 2′ each, with about 10″ separating them. The ceiling height at the top of the wall is only about 5’8″ high because it’s a shed dormer. I want to have subway tiles on the entire wall, and I want to have painted wood window casing around all the windows. I’m just wondering what are the steps to going about this, since I’ve never done tile work before. My guess is
1. Install wood returns inside the window’s rough opening with the inside edges flush with the surface of the Hardibacker. Pine? or does the wood matter?
2. Install window casing and stool, but make them deeper to account for the thickness of the tile.
3. Install the tile onto the wall.
4. Install the apron part of the window casing on top of the tile. Or should it be installed onto the backerboard like the rest of the casing? Any ideas?
Replies
I would omit the apron, just the sill under the window.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Agree with FastEddie about omitting the apron. If it were me, I would trim out the windows and then tile up to the casing
What are the thicknesses of both the casings and the tile?
A thick tile butting to a thin casing is going to look cheesey.
But if the casing is substantial enough, installing it first and butting the tile to it is fine.
And I agree with the others...don't bother with an apron (skirt).
Oh how they pound, raising the sound,
o'er hill and dale, telling their tale,
Gaily they ring while people sing
songs of good cheer, Christmas is here....
I haven't yet selected either the casing or the tile. As for the casing, I can make it whatever thickness it needs to be by gluing laminations to the backside. We already did that on our exterior window casings. You're right: if it's too thin it will look cheesy. And now that everyone's said don't do an apron, I won't.
Sounds like you'll need extension jams to reach the tile surface, If so, glue them to the casing ahead of time. To cut them correctly make a matching thickness scrap half the width of the casing about a foot long. With double sided tape, attach to your chop saw table tight to the fence. Make the cuts with the molding face up. Outside edge against the fence.
With 2 Foot square windows I'd assemble them as picture frames, then with a little Liquid nails on the backside and the nail 'em into the frame.
People say I know too much.
Thanks, CS, and can you recommend what type wood to use to build the jambs? We do have some salvaged redwood we could use. Would that be good?
What ever floats your boat! When it come to aesthetics, I don't argue with anyone named Barbara...
or Sally, or Jane...
or a paying customer.
Good luck with it.
Chris
Some say I know too much.
Edited 12/5/2006 7:29 pm ET by CarpentrySpecialist