Looking at doing a small island in tile. It’s only 32 x 48 and we want as small an overhang as possible, so I’m thinkjing a finished size of 33 x 49 might work. It will have a tile edge, not wood. Current top is dinged formica with an oak edge. My thought was to remove the old top and use a new piece of 3/4 ply and 1/4 hardie, but I’m not sure if that will provide a thick enough top for the edge tile. Need advice on the best way to do the edge.
I’m sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Replies
Ed,
Much depends on the availability of different tile sizes / shapes.
I have no idea what they are called but I have seen and used tiles which turned a 90 to lap an edge or corner. Conter top thickness at the edge becomes a function of the tile being used.
I have also used ripped bullnoses on edges. Tile saw with a site built fixture for repetitive cuts is a big plus. Apply Hardie on edge and tile just like it was a wall.
The 1" counter thickness can easily be built up at the edges by laminating another layer of plywood to the underside of the main counter.
If you build up the edge area, also build up any other areas which have a place to bear on a cabinet edge. Tile is relatively heavy so the more support you can get in mid-span, the better.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I used 4" handmade tile from Mexico to do our last kitchen. The bullnose or V - whatever you cann the L-shaped piece that you install around the perimeter - can be mitered as you say if that style tile does not come with pieces designed for corners. I would caution however, that the miter will result in a sharp edge and care should be taken when setting those pieces to keep from having a dangerous corner. I did not do this in our last house. Fortunately no one was ever cut, but I ran my hand across it often to remind myself to never do that again.
1-1/2" for an edge looks more robust, and we're used to it, so you might want to make up the total thickness to that...jtc1 suggests adding add'l material to the u/s, but this might interfere with drawers and doors.
you might want to look at a new stainproof grout, too -
http://www.trafficmasterstainproofgrout.com recently reviewed in FHB
cheers
***I'm a contractor - but I'm trying to go straight!***
As usual, my explanation for building up the edge thickness was as clear as mud.
I picture frame the underside of the countertop, usually using strips about 6" wide for this purpose.
The material added to the underside of the counter top edge will rest on the top of the cabinets when installed -- no door / drawer interference as bottom face of counter is even with, and is supported by, the top of the cabinets.
This raises the entire counter by some dimension ( 3/4" or whatever thickness is added), hence the comment to add same material at other bearing points which were "lost" by raising the edges.
Doubling the entire thickness works too, but in this case will requires an extra sheet of ply. Enough 6" strips can be cut from the scrap from his first sheet.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Hi Ed
One thing you might consider which gets overlooked a lot, IMO. If countertop edge projects out farther than vertical plane of cabinet doors, spills drip to floor as opposed to down cabinet face...a good thing.
PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
I have to relearn nomenclature every time I switch trades but I think what you want are V - caps
will frame your island beautifully, provide for countertop being proud of most any protuberance ( i. e . overlay doors )
most v - caps are a thing of beauty and will make a huge difference in your appreciation of islandanother ripping of plywood or 1 x 1" glued and screwed under plywood deck might improve your substrate
V-caps work well, except when you use natural stone for the counters. Or when the client selects a tile that doesn't have caps available, and none of those available match the color well enough.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.