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If any water gets to it , Durrock absorbs water like a sponge. Wrecks the screws, nails, wood framing etc. Also the mastic gives out. I’ve taken out tons of it.If you still want to use it go ahead but take the proper precautions.Use thinset adhesive,mesh the corners and joints with thinset also. I prefer working with Densheild; using the same methods as above. However, the majority of my cliants get green board unless they ask for something else. Then I’ll explain to them the difference for a proper installation. Longevity will also depend upon a good tile job. caulking, good grouting and periodic maintanance. Just like buying a new car, the owner has to do maintanance or it aint gonna last.
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I need some seasoned advice to settle an argument. When can moisture-resistant drywall (greenboard) be used as a base for ceramic tile? I see that USG has no problems recommending it on tub and shower walls except where there will be heavy, regular water exposure. But I'm getting some conflicting advice from tilers and suppliers.
The compromise suggestions I'm getting are: OK to use it on walls of tub surround with no shower, but don't use on walls of shower (in which case, use DensShield or Durock).
What's your experience?
*Same advise.
*I have had communications with Tile Council of America on this for over a year. They still haven't given me a satisfactory answer to why they approve of a greenboard installation in a shower.I'll simplifiy the matter: if you install tile over greenboard in a showerstall or tub with showerhead, I'll be more than happy to charge you double to rip it out and do it right.
*The simple answer might be that concrete board will last longer than green board...Greenboard will last quite awhile depending on how much water gets to it...amount of use and abuse and quality of tile work, etc. I see it lasting ten to twenty years.J
*I'm with you AJ! That's why I used it on the last remodel. After 10 -20 years going to need a remodel again anyway due to style and the rest of the room looking beat.
*If any water gets to it , Durrock absorbs water like a sponge. Wrecks the screws, nails, wood framing etc. Also the mastic gives out. I've taken out tons of it.If you still want to use it go ahead but take the proper precautions.Use thinset adhesive,mesh the corners and joints with thinset also. I prefer working with Densheild; using the same methods as above. However, the majority of my cliants get green board unless they ask for something else. Then I'll explain to them the difference for a proper installation. Longevity will also depend upon a good tile job. caulking, good grouting and periodic maintanance. Just like buying a new car, the owner has to do maintanance or it aint gonna last.
*In most areas where I have worked, it is illegal to apply tile directly to greenboard. You are depending on grout (which can crack, even fall out) and the adhesive (solvent or water soluable) to protect the "water-resistant" drywall from getting wet. It does make a good backing for the lathe when building a mortar bed or applying wonderboard, duro-rock or whatever. Before anything is applied over the greenboard a vapor barrier is required. Asphalted paper is most common. All lathe and cement boards must be nailed to the studs.