Hi,
I have just installed a new tub and as per directions I shimmed out the studs so the cement board would cover the tub lip. Not sure on how to transition the tile when it reaches the greenboard, there’s about a 3/8″ difference in profile between the cement board and the green board. Should I just make that up with thinset or should I just slope the trim tile into the greenboard?
All help appreciated,
Mike
Replies
Well, if I couldn't find an appropriate nosing tile I'd probably just finish the jog with setting plaster and paint it.
Mike
You shimmed only the area of the tub? And the sidewalls jog back to the unfurred studs? I might have furred the whole wall so the plane of the 1/2"drywall / 1/2" cement bd would have been the same all around.
If this isn't going to work, end transition with a built up pilaster, or as dan suggests-a mudset nosing applied-lipping over the cement bd and returning to the drywall.
In a long wall starting alcove-cut back the bottoms of the long wall studs to recess the lip-build out the wing wall over the lip. Everything flushes up and regular tile works fine.
You got a picture of this?
Thanks,
I think I'll go ahead and take down the green board, there's only 2 pieces, and shim out the rest of the studs (4). I'll have to move out an outlet box to but I think it will look much better doing it this way.
Thank you again,
Mike
I've got all one piece tub/ shower units but they all have lips just the same as a tub and all they did on them is take a chisel to the studs and chisel out a space for the lip. It only amounts to a 1 1/2" or 2" section maybe a 1/4 inch deep. Much easier than shimming out studs and dealing with different wall thicknesses. The two studs where the lip actually runs from the floor to six foot height was just ripped down over the six foot length to narrow it up.
Thanks,
You can't do that once the studs are in can you?
Mike
You can Mike
If your situation permits the install, you can notch the studs. The thickness of the lip means alot
In the case of cast iron where sliding it in is pretty darn difficult w/o tipping the back up and lowering it in.
Or perhaps like in your case, the long left wall might need notched also so you have room as you start to slide it in the alcove.
It's one of those cases where you pick the most convenient, easiest, least costly, whatever works to get the parts together and achieve the most pleasing, longest lasting and troublefree install.
In many cases there's no furring or notching done. The bottom ot the membrane behind the cement board will go down to and over the tub lip. The cement board goes down to just shy of the top of the tub lip to allow any water that gets behind it to drain to tub. Tile goes down to within a large 1/8" of top of tub deck allowing a decent caulk at the base. Primarily this use for large tiles. I've seen this done many times, tho it is not recommended by the Tile Council of America. The less high the lip, the more it seems to be workable.
Thanks,
The original tub had no furring but when I got the new tub in place there was plenty off end to end wiggle room so in this case I guess I had no option but to furr out. It worked out fine, however, I did notice that the 1/2" cement board isn't the same 1/2" as the green board. Is that for the thinset?
Mike
Is that for the thinset?
Boy, I don't know. If you're close, you're going to run that tile just beyond the joint in the transition. Can't be far off enough to make too much difference. You don't want it flopping around there, but 1/2 is usually 1/2 or damn close.
CB is 3/8, clearly states on the face 1/2". GB is 1/2" but the tapered edge is 3/8. Maybe that's the reason?? Just curious, not a problem.
Mike
You're going to make me go back out to the shop.........
and measure, aren't you?
I'm thinking all I have a scrap out there is of hardi. But since it's shy-with your thinset-you should be golden. It's usually the other way around-too much where you don't want it.
including my waist and it isn't even Christmas yet.
ugh.
Called Hardie, actual dimension is .42". They said is to compensate for thinset and tape. There you have it.
Mike
Thank you.
Now I know the spec's and will try to utilize them to the fullest.
Yet another pc of information to try and cramb in there. Wonder which one I'll lose making room for it?
Anxious to see the tile shots when you're done.