I love my Bosch 10″ compound slider. But for small pieces, like returns on a piece of base-shoe, scribe molding, etc., it seems like a smaller tool would be in order. The Bosch often blows the small off-cut away, and half the time I can’t even find it! Any suggestions?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Fine Homebuilding is excited to be the official media partner of the 2024 Building Science Symposium series! This event offers builders, tradesmen, architects, designers and suppliers to discuss topics ranging…
Featured Video
Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by BrickHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Bosch has that bayonet sort of finish/undercut saw. It has a mitre rack to hook it to. It has been mentioned as a picture frame saw. The action isn't as hard so I'm thinking the pcs wouldn't fly around.
On site I slip a more continuous temp fence ("L-shaped") in front of the cast saw fence. The small opening for the sawblade keeps the pcs up front provided there's no bindage. My Hitachi has a couple of sliding plastic fences for small pcs, but it's too much trouble unless doing alot of small trim work.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Thanks Calvin, I've seen that Bosch before. I'm still thinking about it. Problem is, every time I think of it, I start thinking about the Fein Multimaster, then I start thinking about the price of the Fein Multimaster, then I go buy some other tool and I'm broke awhile longer. Vicious cycle! The Bosch does come with that cute little miter box, 'tho, which I don't think the Fein has.
-----------edited to add: I'm kinda afraid if I bring that cute little dollhouse miter box out in front of the guys, they might start making fun of me. But I gotta admit, it'd do exactly what I asked. Gotta think it over...
Edited 12/27/2005 8:48 pm by Huck
Haven't you heard? You can do almost anything with a Dremel Tool!
Seriously, if you're making cuts like these on a regular basis, I would think about getting or making a miter box for the saw that makes the cleanest cuts, and become really good with that saw. It doesn't take a lot of time to make the cuts and you won't be messing around with tiny parts that were blown out of reach. A Japanese style saw might be best, but a really good crosscut toothed back saw will work really well, too. There may be a small chop saw that doesn't generate the wind, but it probably won't be made for great accuracy, more likely it's made for hobbyists cutting things for models.
I've got an excellent one in my archives. Haven't used it for so long, I almost forgot I had it. I can never figure out how to plug the dang thing in! Guess I should break it out of the mothballs, and set up a box for miter cuts.
Huck,
Buy or make a good miter box, I have one from Jourgnson for just those details.... that and to cary up to the third floor when I only have to case one door.
cordless
quiet
accurate
light
what more could you ask for?
james
OK, OK, I hear ya. Why am I always looking for new gadget when the timeless old standard works great?
You can still use your bosch saw. Make two L shaped jigs that clamp to the fence with spring clamps. This is a zero clearnce adjustable fence. When you cut the mitered returns,cut enough lefts, then recut the fence and cut the right returns.
If the jig is several inches longer on each side of the fence, even recutting it will last for ten houses.The small returns do not get lodged in the blade or spit out.Nothing fancy, scrap 1x will do.
mike
OK, I made one today, at the end of the day. Not sure when I'll get a chance again to use it, but its ready! (and I'll probably have misplaced it by the time I need it again!)
I found a factory refurbished Delta 8 1/2" miter saw on E-Bay for $69, put a $49 Freud blade on it .Great for 2x4 and 5/4 material kitchen/bath soffitt work. Leave my LS1220 in the truck.
SteveC
Now you're talking my language - another tool I can justify buying!
My first chop saw was a Makita 12" miter saw....nuthin` fancy, but it did the job. When I went out and spent some real dollars on the sliding compound version, I figgered I'd never see the old one again.
Wrong! That thing is still kickin` and I use it for exactly what you`re describing.
Small....lightweight...doesn`t balst the cuts across the room. Model # escapes me at the moment, but I`m sure any of that genre would work nicely.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I've got a little 8 1/2 Royobi...compound, no less....it's so small I almost got two (bought it from "the Source" in Va. years back, wasn't till I got home that I realized they'd loaded two boxes strapped together in the van....good thing I'm mostly honest...)
I remember those little homeowner jobbies - now I wished I hadn't been such a snob! See what I get?
The "L" shaped jig idea works great in my 12 inch Makita chop saw. The way I use it sometimes is to "hot glue" it in, cut the 45 deg mitre on one end then I know where the little, say 1/4 inch QR is going to get cut. Without the "L" jig you never know what is going to happen.
I have this Jorgensen saw. (Well, my handle is different, but the guides and the orange angle lever are the same.) Plastic base and guides, but it does a good job. There is also one available with an aluminum base. Both about $45 on Amazon
View Image
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
OK...are you gonna tell us how you like it? What you use it for? Pro's and con's? Or do I gotta go on amazon and read the reviews? =)
Edited 12/27/2005 10:44 pm by Huck
I have one similar ... base is a little bigger.
was actually my first "compound miter saw"!
the down side is ... there's no where good to stick it in the van ... too "sensitive" to just leave out and potentially stack other crap on it ... and ... even though it's light weight ... there's no easy way to just grab it and run up a set of steps.
blade is always trying to shift one way or another ... blade will just slide up and pop off unless U carry it by the base ...
I got the worlds cheapest Delta a coupla years back ... so cheap it doesn't even have a handle to turn and lock down at different angles ... just a pin ya pull and hope for a detent.
But ... lock the head down ... and there's a handle on the top ... easy carry anywhere.
Git it years ago when I found myself becoming the "attic trimmer" for a guy I worked for. Just seemed every other job was an attic remodel ... and I always found myself running basic trim in attics thru out the city. Saw can't cut much other than pine base/casing and shoe ... but it was way better than humping anything else up there.
Oh yeah ... the hand saw ... gotta be clamped down to something too ... too light ... just pulling the blade out tips her over. It's a very nice tool ... but has been in the basement for years. Might look to see if I can find some sorta gym bag to cram it into? That might work.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
It's an ok saw. Like jeff says, it needs to be clamped down, but I often use it un-clamped. Mine is not compound, it only miters. The only problem I have is that it has a very hard time taking off less than a blade width. There's nothing to guide the blade, and it wants to ride over the edge of the wood. I wouldn't use it for production stuff, but for running shoe in a bath after tiling, or just a few cuts, it's effective.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
yeah ... forgot about that too ...
can't "shave off a hair" ... with it.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Eddie,
does that blade last long? how much for a replacement?
The blade lasts until you replace it. ha ha ha. Heck, I don't know. I only use it for special occassions, so it's lasting me a long time.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Was in the local Home Depot today, saw 2 miter saws 1 was a SCM for $125 8 1/4" blade & a 8 1/4" reg miter saw for $53. Lot Chesse from China, but if you were in a jamb I guess they would both be good for throw away saws.
Now would it be wrong to put a $100 blade on a $53 saw?
I put a $40 or so blade on that little delta I picked up on sale for $70 ...
so I'm close!
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
This might solve some af your problems and especially for shoemoulding.......
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32192&cat=1,51222&ap=1
On a hill by the harbour
Edited 12/28/2005 2:11 am by Novy
re: Lee Valley miter shears -- have you used these? do they crush the end of the wood?
We have been using them for about 6-7 years.
They have their limitations but within the range they are the best.
As far as crushing the wood goes well it depends on how sharp they are and the wood species.
They are not the be all end all but in their range the are fantastic........
On a hill by the harbour
I have seen that same thing for cutting tack strip for carpet. It may work on softwoods, but I have my reservations about oak shoe.
Wango ,
Please reread my post...... Especially the part about wood species.
OOps Sorry about that ! I see you were replying to my earliear post.
Scroll back and I qualified their usefullness in a later post.
On a hill by the harbour
Edited 12/29/2005 1:29 am by Novy
First miter saw I bought I still have. Cost me $225, a Millers Falls cast iron base, with a backsaw that's 30" by 6". I would trim all day with that. A few years later I bought my first electric and haven't touched the old one since. It's still a good saw, but rather obsolete. It's cool to look at, especially when the young guys see it...they had no idea there was ever anything like it.
Get a small 8" miter saw, and do the zero clearance thing. That's all. I do it with my old 12" Dewalt ...one of the best all around saws ever made. Works just fine.