hello all,
my wife and I moved into a 7 year old home about a month ago and have decided that we cannot live with the current kitchen cabinet finish (some kinf od pickling). So, next thing on my list is to paint the cabinets. They are 42″ tall, with crown on top (about a foot short of the 9′ ceilings).
So, do I de-grease (w/TSP) and then lighty sand the surfaces to be painted, prime (then lighlty sand again), and then paint (2 coats?)?
I have an HVLP sprayer (campbell hausfeld) to use on the cabinet/drawer fronts, but will plan on rolling the cabinet sides, and brushing the crown. I am partial to Benjamin Moore latex (with a bit of floetrol) paint. Is there a more appropriate paint to use?
Do I need to put a protective finish once the paint has dried? If so, what are my options?
Any other tips are greatly appreciated. This seems pretty straight forward, just need a lot of time and patience to do a good job.
Thanks.
Replies
BM is a good choice, but switch to oil Impervo which will not only behave like enamel it will spray easier.
I just think you'll regret using latex, it neither flows as well or dries as hard as oil.
Look at Fine Paints of Europe for the ultimate painted finish.
thank you for the advice...
have you had any experience with the BM satin Impervo? supposedly flows like oil based paints..
I am of an age that I have not had to deal much with oil based paints, and like the ease of water/soap cleanup. If I introduce oil based paints to my HVLP can I ever go back to latex? seems like cleanup would be a bear...
Amanna,
The latex BM Satin Impervo is excellent paint. I know a lot of painters who swear by it, and swear the finish is as nice as an oil finish. Sprayed on with good equipment it can look as good as oil, but brushed on I still think the only thing that looks as good as an oil-based finish, is an oil-based finish.
Anyway, we published an article about a year ago on painting kitchens. The author used latex BM Satin Impervo for almost everything including the cabinet carcasses and door and drawer fronts. He warned that it wasn't durable enough for shelves though. He said he always uses oil on shelves. With that in mind, you shouldn't need a protective finish.
Brian P.
BrianP,
thank you for the insight. If I use the oil based Impervo should I also use an oil based primer (BIN?), or can I use a latex primer?
Similaryly, everything I read about oil Impervo speaks to the high gloss finish, what if I want a satin finish, can this be achieved with oil based Impervo?
many thanks!
With a pinch of Penetrol Impervo can be brushed on and almost pass for sprayed. Sets hard, cleans exceptionally well, a requirement in a kitchen.
Test it out. Let the results settle the question.
Brushes solvent cleaned are not difficult to clean. Set up three containers, use them in sequence, filter the thinner with coffee filters.
Since it's a kitchen, and it's your kitchen, I'd be inclined to just go ahead and brush/roller paint it in batches. That decreases the amount of kitchen "lost" to tarping & masking. This can ease household tension no end, too.
Making the project into uppers, then bases, helps, too, again if only for making it into smaller, more easily achieved before supper projects. Lastly, I'd vote for the do it in smaller batches, to insure domestic tranquility over the selected color actually in place. The only thing worse than masking & drop clothing the entire kitchen is doing it twice.
That's not to say you shouldn't spray te cabs--you might be able to do that quite readily--kitchens vary after all. I've just seen too many that need dissassembly before painting <g> (and not jsut moving the coffee maker, but the canster set, and the photos on the fridge, and the decorative doodads, and the the spice rack, and so on . . . )
I'm just curious what kind of wood these cabinets are?
Any idea
Doug
I'm curious, too. While the doors of my kitchen cabinetry are wood, what is on the surface of the non-doors most certainly appears to be quality-applied faux-wood paper/vinyl covering over particle board. I wouldn't think of a) getting it wet with anything, b) sanding it at all, and probably not even think of repainting it with an oil-paint out of fear the oil-based paint might act like a solvent to the adheasive in that faux covering.
not real sure...there is a definite grain that I see through the "pickling" finish. I am assuming oak or maple. There is no make or model that I can find, just some type of kitchen cabinet "certification" label.
The house is fairly high end for the area, so I am assuming no pine (they are pretty hard as well). I really hope they did not put that ugly finish on cherry.
Any ideas how I can tell the wood used? Does it matter as long as I have determined it is not MDF, pine, or a synthetic material?
Thanks...
Re-read this post, 62772.9
The reason that I'm curious is partially because if the wood is Oak then even after you paint you are still going to see the wood grain, or at least the pores of the wood.
Don't assume because something is pine that it is cheep, try buying some clear pine and let me know what you find! Not likely that its (at least the doors) are pine, mdf or synthetic.
If you cant tell the wood try taking a door in to the paint shop or a wood shop and ask, or try taking a good picture and showing it here.
Doug
Doug,
Do you mean I will see the "texture" of the grain, or the color (light/dark variation) of the grain. I am fine with the texture, but do not want any light or dark areas bleeding through.
I will see if I can get someone to identify the wood for me.
Many thanks.
The texture, but if your OK with that then it wont matter about wood species.
If their maple it will cover nice and smooooth.
BIN oil primer first then VArathane top coat. I've had absolutly amazing results with it. Just be sure to have all cab door fronts and draw fronts
sitting hosizontally when you paint. I've even used a brush and it levels its self out like you wouldnt believe.
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