Replies

1. 
   IMERC | Jan 06, 2005 03:38am | #1

   put a call into Pro-Dek for this one...

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!!   What a Ride!

2. 
   Treetalk | Jan 06, 2005 03:43am | #2

   I hope u got some beefy racks cuz i pc. of trex is a load. U r framing has to be laser straight because trex is so pliable itll show ever joist thats crowned or a bit low .Dont try the " screw in; then hammer fuzz back over hole trick" It only works till the next rain.The original trex screws from Mc Feelys we got gave us some problems(caming out and didnt bore a clean head dimple) but i think they have a new vairety.It does rout and work nice but the slightly crowned face makes rounding over the end cuts a lil inconsistant.The grey the client  wanted for one of the decks we did got rite hot in the summer..we called it the griddle.

3. 
   TLE | Jan 06, 2005 03:44am | #3

   If at all possible, use one of the hidden fastener methods.

   They are slow to install, but the clean look is amazing.

   If not concealed, self sinking screws for composite lumber work well. I have yet to feel the need for stainless on composite materials.

   Terry

4. 
   NickNukeEm | Jan 06, 2005 04:08am | #4

   I've used the self-tapping stainless steel composite deck screws, and to ensure they seat well, I predrill.  If you can have the stuff delivered, you are far better off.  They delivered 20 20 footers strapped onto 2x12s that bent like I've never seen 2xs bend.  Can't imagine transporting that stuff on a pu truck...

   The stuff I use has a tendency to stain if wet and covered by other decking, so cover your stacks when stored.  Maybe yours is different. 

   Ditto on the heat thing, the stuff can get hotter than a 2-bit ho on Saturday night...

    

    

   I never met a tool I didn't like!
5. 
   ProDek | Jan 06, 2005 05:15am | #5

   Go to

   photo gallery

   "trex deck saddle"

   It may help answer some of your questions with pictures.

   I normally have Trex delivered but if you need to transport it on a lumber rack just borrow  couple of 16' 2x12's to put under the stuff.

   Careful this time of year. the stuff freezes and when you step on the brakes it will torpedo out of the stack. Have the lumber yard band them to your lumber rack.

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

   Bob

6. 
   jonblakemore | Jan 06, 2005 06:46am | #6

   If you rout your ends run the bearing along the face not the end. It seems weird but this way the crown problem is avoided. You'll see what I mean once you try it.

   I would use composite decking specific screws. If you want to use trim heads or something else, I think you really have to predrill if you want a clean installation.

   Don't bury the j boxes under the trex... wait wrong thread <g>

    

   Jon Blakemore

1. 
   MikeSmith | Jan 06, 2005 07:41am | #7

   eric.... get it delivered or use the planks

   we like a #10 x 2 1/2 SS,  just drive em below...  you can hit the mushrooms with a hammer if you like

   use the Trex spacing jigs  or  5/16 "  side to side.. make sure you space them end to end

    trex is great material , the new trex is a little more uniform than the old materialMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   EricPaulson | Jan 06, 2005 03:02pm | #8

   Muchas gracias to all of my friends here at Break Time.

   I thought a junction box was a "little" too big to use as a spacer, but I will make sure I use the composite only screws when I fasten to the acq stringer! Shouldn't eat it too bad eh?

   Be buried,

   Eric

   I Love A Hand That Meets My Own,

   With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.

   Edited 1/6/2005 7:03 am ET by firebird

1. 
   dIrishInMe | Jan 06, 2005 03:30pm | #9

   Re attachment I have tried several brands of screws... I like Trapease composite deck screws the best.  They come in colors and no pre-drilling is necessary.

   Also, space the decking per the instructions.  The first Trex deck I built, I spaced the boards where I thought they looked good, but in the long run the deck tends to perpetually have a bunch of debris (leaves, etc) stuck between the decking boards.  ~ 1/4" is good.  They have a tool...

   If you have places where board ends will butt (ie deck > 20' max material length) frame to allow for that at the butts. 

   Get the stuff delivered.  It is heavy!

   Here is some pics. Matt

7. 
   bayviewrr | Jan 06, 2005 03:46pm | #10

   I like to use the stainless Headcoat tim head screws.  Holds well and doesnt make the big mushroom.

   I don't know where you live, but I live on an island off the eastern Atlantic coast and we have a MAJOR problem with Trex here.  I won't use it.  Here on the island, mold grows like corn in Iowa on the Trex and IT WONT COME OFF.....even with powerwashing and bleach.  Obviously Trex know of this problem because in a recent installation bulletin they have a release on the mold issue....saying it is a "natural" element and it is not the problem of Trex.  All I know is, Trex is the only product down here that has the mold problem.  I usually use Timbertech unless requested by the client and have not had a mold problem with that at all.  I do think the Trex is a better looking product than many of the other composition decking materials, but down here it is just a call back waiting to happen.  Before you make the purchase on the Trex, read the mold release in the back of their installation pamphlet.

   Also...I like everyone else's advice about having it delivered.  Stuff weighs a ton.  If you can get someone else to do the labor of delivery, all the more better.  Remember....keep it simple.

   Best of luck.....Brian, Bayview Renovations