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What is your current preference for an outside weatherproof glue with tight mating wood parts (i.e., not a construction adhesive situation)? I’ve been using Titebond is rarely wet applications, the other two in tougher exposures or low porosity materials (e.g., Trex).
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Evening, Andrew...
I'm in the process of assembling several pieces of outdoor patio furniture. The wood is mahogany, all mortise/tenon joinery. I'm using epoxy.
On other projects I've used outdoor titebond and urethane, but I get the best results in wood/wood with epoxy.
*Furniture kits? I put together a porch swing from Wood Classics in NY. It wouldn't have occurred to me to use epoxy before that. Used epoxy in a recent job to repair some boo-boos where the nice (nearly clear) cedar splintered. Nice result. Polyurethane has a pretty long clamping time, though i suppose you could just shoot a nail through the joint ... I bought some to see what all the fuss was about.
*I trust them in the exact order you list them, and use them accordingly; titebond for non-critical areas (for instance, I just made a run of exterior raised panel shutters and used the titebond for the housed mortise and tenons. By non-critical, in this case I mean there isn't much chance of prolonged soaking or anything), polyurethane for more exposed areas, but not where high strength is required (for example, I glued the panels up with it. I am using it more and more, but in my little shop tests, it doesn't seem anywhere near as strong as it is claimed. I'm using a competitive brand, though, not Gorilla). Epoxy is the standby, I use it whenever I have doubts. I use West System from habit and based on excellent results.When the first weatherproof PVA's came out, by the way, i did some test panels and put them outside. They all failed, but that was four (?) years ago, when they were brand new.
*I told you before the vibes are flowing up the Atlantic Coast...our order arrived a few days ago.We bought 2 adirondacks, a dining table, 2 dining chairs, 2 big arm chairs, and a small end table.Nice kits, eh? It's not often a company includes more hardware then you need to assemble an item. well packed, too.I must say, though, that I disregarded the instructions and chose Newcastle over lemonade.
*Instructions? They came with instructions? :)
*A good laugh!
*I'd take a Newcie over the ade any day - even if it is made by a bunch of Jordies! (Jordies, by the way, are reportedly Scotsmen with their brains bashed out.)Pass me a Brown!Cheers
*Atta Boy Mongo!
*Andrew, about 2 winters ago I built myself an outdoor table out of cedar.Mortise,tenon,pegged joints,no metal used anywhere.Tight fitting joints and titebond II waterproof glue is all that holds it together.I don't know if this is the best glue for the job but I have been happy with the results so far.It has been outside in the snow and rain for over 2 years and is still fine.The yard that sold me this glue said they sell a ton of it to SEA WORLD and it holds up to the water there.I don't know if it is true but thats what they saidGood Luck,Stephen
*I like Titebond II just fine. The wood will fail before the glue will. I've been having fun with the Gorilla Glue; I think it might be a shade less strong, having deliberately broken a couple of the joints, but it does promise to be waterproof. And hey, it costs 3 times as much! Really, you don't need to use very much because it expands.I just don't want to have to redo work a year or two from now -- esp. for a client. So I'm open to glue wisdom.
*For small- to medium-sized jobs, I've had great success with epoxy. In part because you can mix in wood floor for a thicker consistency when needed. Can that be done with the glues? I've been using System Three out of Seattle. It's what came with my wooden kayak kits and I've been impressed by how much abuse those 1/8" plywood panels end-epoxyed together can take (like paddling 16-foot kayak in 3-foot seas and landing it on rocky beachs). It my shop tests, if the wood wasn't wet, the epoxy always held and the wood broke when stressed to the limit.