Replies

1. 
   Framer | Jul 08, 2005 08:55pm | #1

   Wow, I just got done going thru the archives on the issue of strapping or furring ceilings not realizing it was such a contentious issue. 

    

   You'll get those arguments when discussing new work because some people strap and some don't. Where I'm from you'll never see strapping on new work. Some of the people who strap will say that you have to strap and that's where the arguments come in and the people who don't strap like me will say it's not necessary.

    

   On existing houses with bad ceilings we'll always furr them out and shim where it's needed. Sometimes the ceilings are so bad that if you have a high enough ceiling that we frame a new one out of 2x4's or 2x6's especially if it's a kitchen and your hanging cabinets.

    

   In your case where the ceiling is not that bad you could just sheetrock right over it. If you decide to furr it out I would run them perpendicular to the existing joists nailed/screwed every 16" center shimming where necessary and I would use 1/2" or 5/8" sheetrock. Some guys glue the furring strips also.

    

    

   Joe Carola
1. 
   ripmeister | Jul 08, 2005 09:09pm | #2

   Thanks for the response Joe.  In thinking about this I thought that by putting up the strapping it might make it easier to hit the spot when I go to screw down the drywall but that raised the question as to whether you should aim to screw thru the strapping and into the joists or is just into the strapping good enough.

   If I do add the strapping would finish nails (16g) be ok for attachment ( I only have a pneumatic finish and brad nailer) if I do screw the DW thru and into the joists or should I use screws?  I dont want to use a hammer as I'm afraid the banging and vibration may cause more plaster than I want to to come down.

   If I were to decide to hand nail what size and type nail would you recommend?  If I screw the strapping (no jokes please :) ) would course thread Piffen screws be the way to go?

   I appreciate your help.

2. 
   Piffin | Jul 09, 2005 02:48am | #5

   "Some of the people who strap will say that you have to strap "I don't know that I've ever read that, Joe. I strap and don't mind if someone doesn't. but I point out how there are so many advantages to using strapping that is seems rediculous not too. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Framer | Jul 09, 2005 03:07am | #6

   I don't know that I've ever read that, Joe. I strap and don't mind if someone doesn't. but I point out how there are so many advantages to using strapping that is seems rediculous not too.

   It's been said before, trust me. And I think it's ridiculous to strap beacsue I did it in Cape Cod for a year and there's thousands and thousands of houses built without it around here and it's not necessary. Again that's your opinion and that's fine but I wont get into it with because we will agree to disagree and I love you........;-)

    

    

    Joe Carola

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 09, 2005 04:20am | #7

   You too. be going to the prom strapless then.;) 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   IMERC | Jul 09, 2005 07:14am | #8

   strapped maybe???? 

2. 
   JohnSprung | Jul 08, 2005 09:17pm | #3

   If the joists are the floor joists of a higher story, you can hang the rock with no worries.  But if this is the top floor and they're just ceiling joists, adding the weight of new rock to the existing plaster may be too much for them.  In that case, I'd be inclined to demo the old plaster first.

    

   -- J.S.

    

1. 
   ripmeister | Jul 11, 2005 03:57pm | #9

   This is a first floor room with story above, although I have noticed when one of my kids jumps of the bunkbed that is in the bedroom above there is a pretty good vibration transmitted to the ceiling below.  I don't know if that indicates anything other than rowdy kids.

3. 
   Piffin | Jul 09, 2005 02:46am | #4

   Good idea to strap it because you can get better purchase on the structure above with the ring shank naiols or screws used to hiold it up.

   Spacing depends on thickness of SR. 1/2" needs 12" OC. 5/8" is OK at 16" OC

   Odds are that you have strapping above the plaster now. I would align with that, and while you are making swiss chees of the plaster, lolcate the joists so you can screw into them too. The old nails originally holding strapping up could have rusted and otherwise loosened by now, and you are adding weight to what could already be compromised, so seek those joists to pin to.

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   ripmeister | Jul 11, 2005 04:11pm | #10

   Based on a previous tearout of my foyer I don't think there will be strapping unless you count the wood lath as strapping which I guess it would be in a sense.  The question I had was if I attach the new strapping to the joist will I then have enough room to run a drywall screw into the joist at that location also or will running the drywall screws into the strapping alone suffice.

   I guess this raises the question of whether or not it would be better to simply put the drywall directly against the existing plaster making sure to hit the joists with the screws.

   Now that I think about it I was assuming that I would run the straps perp. to the joist.  Would you recommend running the straps along the length of the joist thereby leaving plenty of spots to then screw the DW thru the stap, plaster and into the joist?

   If this is so what sort of nailing schedule would you use to attach the straps to the joist. i.e. spacing?

   Edited 7/11/2005 9:29 am ET by ripmeister

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 12, 2005 05:44am | #11

   strapping goes perp to th ejoist. drywall screws only need to be in the strapping once it is held to the joist. It is faar easier to hit joists withy screws -0 or miss, check, and replace in strapping with old work than to try getting it hit withy plaster already there and obscuring your vision, not to mention the headaches, neck, back, and shoulder aches from having to hold that rock up far longer while you fiddle. It is easy Easy, EASY to hit the strapping with the screw though 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   ripmeister | Jul 12, 2005 04:17pm | #12

   Thanks for the response.  I think the fact that the strapping being easy to see and therefore making hitting it with a screw argues for its use if for no other reason.  It would certianly seem easier than essentially blind screwing thru the plaster alone hoping to hit the joist.  Thanks for your help.

1. 
   csnow | Jul 12, 2005 11:34pm | #15

   "I think the fact that the strapping being easy to see and therefore making hitting it with a screw argues for its use if for no other reason.  It would certianly seem easier than essentially blind screwing thru the plaster alone hoping to hit the joist.  Thanks for your help."

   Chalklines.

2. 
   ripmeister | Jul 13, 2005 05:30pm | #16

   good point but what I really meant was hitting a 2.5" wide target as opposed to 1.5" thats behind a layer of plaster.

2. 
   MarkH | Jul 12, 2005 06:52pm | #13

   What do you use for strapping? 1x3 2x2 1x4 2x4? Never seen it done here, but it makes sense to me.

1. 
   MikeSmith | Jul 12, 2005 07:47pm | #14

   1x3 spruce furring... usually in bundles of 10.. commonly  8'   to 16'.. in increments of 2'..

    typical nail schedule is  (1) 8d   or (2) 6d

    Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore