That is the question…………………………..
I’ve got a 135 degree external angle on one of my walls at home.
I’ve got a thin coat stop bead to fix up to finish the corner but should I tape the joint first??????
My inclination would be to do so
pictures attached
Replies
I'm not sure what you mean by thin coat stop bead, but I would certainly tape that corner.
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a thin coat bead is one like this:
http://www.expamet.co.uk/thincoat-stop-beadin the past they have worked well when i've plastered angles like this i've wrapped the corner with the mesh tape, fixed the bead and plastered.
this has held up wellso i'll tape the corner, then apply the bead and then finish.
Thin coat stop bead?...you mean tape bead, with the metal strips? You bead before any tape goes on & corner tape right up to the bead.
http://www.expamet.co.uk/thincoat-stop-beadi plan to apply tape to the corner with setting compound then fix the bead and finish with more compound
Of course! I'm in the drywall thinking here and not plastering. But that's and exterior corner no? (unless my bad eyes are up to their tricks again). Why not just corner bead it with regular tape & steel bead? What happens to the other side of the bead?
yes it is exteriori'm not keen on the metal tape...............especially when there are 2 young kids tearing around.so the bead gets fixed on one side and compund on both.
i'm not keen on the metal tape...............
Have you tried the plastic tape?
I really like the NoCoat Ultraflex for both inside and outside corners
http://www.no-coat.com/NO-COAT/ARCHITECTS/Products/ULTRAFLEX/
I never had much luck keeping that tape with the metal strips stuck to the wall. I found StraightFlex tape 10 years or so back, and have been much happier.
BTW, I've got a thread started for lunch in the Fests folder.
"I've got a thread started for lunch in the Fests folder."Hmmm....don't see it yet, but will keep coming back. Funny how this BT topic thing works. You gotta really search.
and my compliments to the patient soul who ripped and installed all those one inch (?) strips at the bottom.
that would be me!!!!!one day when i get the money!!!??? (in about 25 years when the kids are gone) we are having an oak floor. when i will fish them out to get the expansion gap along the edgeuntil then i'm really happy with the painted plywood.
Edited 1/10/2009 10:48 am ET by kostello
I get "splayed bead" at the local drywall supplier for those kinds of corners.
John Svenson, builder, remodeler, NE Ohio
That is a perfect spot to use No-Coat
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thankyou all for your input..............i can't get no coat beads here in the UK!!!!and guess what they do list a 135 degree bead but no one stocks it!!!!so tape first then the stop bead to create the edge and compound to finish.
I have used regular (90º) metal bead many times with success. I'm usually a broken record when it comes to saying, "Use expanded metal bead!"But I have heat-formed short lengths of plastic bead with good results, so here's another option: rip a piece of 2x to that 135º angle, and set it on the subfloor or a bench. Set a piece of regular 90º plastic bead on it, and squeeze it tight with a 2x4 (possibly with a shallow kerf in it to catch the corner of the bead) screwed to the floor to clamp it.Then run a heat gun up and down both sides of the plastic. It will soften and deform to your 135º mold pretty quickly, and also cool and harden pretty quickly. Only takes a couple of minutes.But usually I just flatten a piece of regular bead by putting a 2x4 on top, and whacking the 2x4 with a hammer a few times before I install the bead. With this lazy method, I end up with a pretty thick mud bead, so (broken record again) I bed it in Durabond (quick-set mud). At this point I'll break out a 2' mason's trowel or, rarely, if it's really bad, a 4' plasterer's Darby to screed the mud.But usually, I can keep the Durabond thickness to 1/4" or so, and the 2' trowel is more than enough.Aitchkay
all good ideas................i do normally use an expanded metal beadi've go this stop bead now and that's what i'm going to use.....if i have to redo it in the future so be it........the honey do list is pressing!!!!
Sounds like what you're going to do will work just fine. Just keep your lines straight when you set the bead, (I use a 6' level), and tape all cracks that may separate the bead from the drywall.