Hello,
Can there be too many 90 degree angles in a bathroom sink waste pipe?
We are installing a new vanity/sink that requires the pipe entry from a rear wall. Problem is, our pipes come up through the floor. The wall behind the vanity sits directly on a load bearing beam, so I cat chop it up for the pipes and I don’t want to come up through the vanity floor since that would immobilize the drawer in the vanity.
Is it possible to put a 90 deg turn in the waste pipe at the floor, have it enter the wall (above the beam), 90 degree up to the vanity rear opening, 90 degree into vanity, 90 degree to P-trap and then to sink? Four 90 degree bends total. . .is that a clog waiting to happen?
My alternatives are to either simply send the pipes up through the drawer and just have a decorative drawer front or chop about 10″ off the back of the drawer. Any other suggestions (other than buy a new vanity).
Thank you for your time,
Jason
I tried to “sketch” the layout below. If you mentally connect each X, you will have a rough idea.
x
x x x x x
xxx x
x
x x x x x x
x
x
Replies
Chop the drawer
I can't visualize exactly your situation, and I'm no plumber, but here are some thoughts: Try to use so-called long-sweep 90's. These are less likely to clog and are easier to snake if they do. Two 45's may be better than a 90. Maybe you could use a couple of those bends to create a trap as a substitute for a standard P trap if this helps fit things in your limited space. You don't show a vent. I'm assuming you have one. Have fun!
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
from toilet to tank ading all angles cannot go over 360 degrees total
The best employee you can have but you wouldn't want him as a neighbor " He the shifty type"
Can you clarify? Toilet to tank? Thanks
Hi Jason I'm not sure of the code considerations but I do Know it will work fine. If you look at the reality of a trap it's 3 on it's own. As far as the 90 sweeps those are used in the horizontal in most cases. There needs to be a cleanout above and in the wall on the way to the roof or other up vent. 60" high.
Clay
Hots on the left colds on the right $$hit don't flow up hill and paydays Friday. I'm not the plumber or the plumbers son but I 'll get the $$hit flowing till the plumber comes.
Can you describe the vanity, width and the drawer and door placement. Single drawer or drawer stack. Left, right or both sides of center.
Does the vanity sit in a 3 sided alcove, 2 sided?
Is this a new vanity, style engraved in stone, or an existing with no possibility of change?
Thoughts:
Rear wall at the vanity is supported by a load bearing beam . How does your water get to the sink?
Can you use a side wall to run the drain and vent? No rule says you have to come into the vanity from the back.
Why don't you want to come up through the vanity base with your waste line? You'd completely miss the beam and have no need to use all those bends.
Where is the vent?
I would chop the draw because I am a carpenter not a plumber.
This is the way our plumbers have done it. Here is a rework of your "sketch":
x | <---- Wall line
x |
x x x x x
x x x <---------- 90 Degree Elbow
x xx x
x
x
x
x
x <----------------------45 Degree Elbow
________x_____________ Floor line
x
x
x
x
x <-----------------------45 Degree Elbow
x
x
x
x
x
You end up having to notch the bottom back of the vanity cabinet for that first 45 degree elbow. If the plumbing is done right, the notch is below the bottom "shelf" of the vanity, so it doesn't show.
Other than that, you really just need to get the correct cabinet for the job.
Hello,
The vanity was purchased (by my wife) and it "will not" be returned (according to my wife). Therefore, I have figure out how to make it work.
The vanity is approximately 32" wide. The vanity has a full-width area under the sink with two doors and then a full-width drawer at the bottom. There is no way to re-route the pipes coming up from the floor without going through the drawer or chopping the drawer's depth.
The vanity sits in the middle of the wall, so piping from the sides isn't an option. The waste and water pipes all come straight up through the floor, avoiding the beam in the wall behind the sink.
DIRISHINME - Thanks for the new sketch. I will give that a try. If all else fails, the drawer gets chopped and my wife no longer goes shopping for cabinetry!
Thank you all for your advice - Jason
Typically, the very back of a drawer is pretty well useless anyway, so you might be able to shorten the drawer, or notch it out. And, repeat after me: "It's SUPPOSED to look like that!!!!"