Tool for Cutting Hardwood Stair Treads to Length
jimmiem
| Posted in General Discussion on
I’ll be replacing the carpeting on a set of stairs with prefinished solid oak hardwood treads. Most of the treads will have to be fit between skirt boards so I’ve put together a stair tread jig. I would like suggestions on the best tool to cut the treads to length. The treads are twelve inches wide. I have a table saw and sled. I was considering buying a sliding compound miter saw but hesitate as I already have a good ten inch non-sliding compound miter saw. I thought maybe an inexpensive scms but you typically get what you pay for. Jig saw or circular saw with cutting guide?
Replies
Circular saw with cutting guide (the kind you make from two pieces so that the edge is the exact cut-line).
You might invest in a really good blade to avoid tear-out, and maybe tape the cut line as extra insurance against tear-out.
jim
Exactly as rd suggests.
On rare occasion cutting from the backside is the only way to avoid chipout-your fitting jig should be able to register that. Also, the exiting of the cut can chip-again, cutting from the backside with your guide will stop that.
Remember that a tight fit on one tread, might push the skirt enough to open the previously installed tread. Same goes with the risers if you are adding them as well.
best of luck.
Hello Calvin,
I'll be doing both the treads and risers. From what I can tell by peeking around and under the carpet, the treads and risers under the carpet are plywood which I plan on leaving, if possible. Cut the nose off the plywood treads. Depending on the thickness of the plywood risers I may face them with 1/4 inch oak risers if I'll still have enough depth for the oak treads...otherwise I'll remove the plywood risers and replace with 3/4 inch oak risers.
The existing skirt boards are against finished walls. Wouldn't I have to hammer home the treads to get the skirt boards to move? I'm paid by the hour so I figure I can take my time and sneak up on the tread and riser lengths to get a good fit without taking out a sledge hammer.
How much luck do you think I'll need to get this done right? I think I'm running out.
jim
Cutting the risers beveled will allow you to swing them into place w/o pushing on the skirt which may or may not move-you'll find out soon.
Not so easy with the treads-as a bevel cut will show on the nosing. Say the distance between the skirts is tighter at the top..............you'll have to force it in to get the tight fit at where it sits.
Skill and a little ..............well, as much luck as you can muster-will produce a nice fit. Just keep a lookout ahead and behind as you work.
And, the only bone I ever broke was finishing a stair-cords/hoses become a bunch of ball bearings real easy on a stair. You'll be going up/down/sideways on this job-stay safe and ordered.
And of course, make sure the material is acclimated and stable.
HF SCMS
I've been looking at the HF 10 inch scms. I've seen mixed reviews on it and yours is the first I've seen on this forum which makes me feel better about it. I have several other HF tools....I've been using the HF flooring nailer ($99.00) to do the hardwood flooring and so far so good.....I've driven approximatley 3,500 2 inch cleats with 0 jams or any other problems. I also have the HF oscillating multi-tool which I'm having a hard time killing....I did break one of the blade pins so I could justify buying a Bosch.
I suppose I could use a circular saw but the scms would be a lot quicker and, as you have found out, it could be a worthwhile investment. I have a 10 inch compound miter saw which weighs 60 pounds and it's not a lot of fun to haul up the basement stairs and load into the trunk of my car when friends and relatives ask me to come and help out on a project.....the HF is half that weight.....I think that you've talked me into it or have I just talked myself into it?
I think I downloaded this pic from BT many years back. Don't recall who posted it originally.
With some modification I think it could be a combination stair gauge and saw guide. Then you could just cut the treads with a hand held circular saw.
Stair Tread Gauge Saw Guide
That's a good idea. My gauge looks similar so I could probably do some minor modifications and use it with a circular saw. Gives new meaning to killing 2 birds with 1 stone. Thanks for the tip.
That might have been Bucksnort Billy; his was very like that, I copied it and have used it ever since with a couple of small modifications. I use that and a circular saw with a sled/cutting jig for accuracy with no tearout.
10" HF SCMS
Can you tell me what the maximum cut width is on the HF 10" SCMS? The current model number is 98199....is this the one you have? I read a review that said the maximum cut width is not as wide as what the spec says. Spec says 12". Review says 10 3/4". I'll be cutting stair treads approximately 11+" wide."
10" HF SCMS
Can you tell me what the maximum cut width is on the HF 10" SCMS? The current model number is 98199....is this the one you have? I read a review that said the maximum cut width is not as wide as what the spec says. Spec says 12". Review says 10 3/4". I'll be cutting stair treads approximately 11+" wide."
Angles
I was up against the same issue awhile back, ended up getting a 12" CMS. I have used it many times since, worth the money. As calvin pointed out, a bevel on the risers helps with installing and the ends, more often than not, require an angle. This is all possible with the jig/worm drive, which was my second choice. The learning curve with the jig/saw system can be frustrating while the CMS is pretty short. Either way, take your time, good luck!
Stair Treads
Did you get a 12" slider or non-slider? I have a 10" non-slider and some good blades for it. My thinking is to get a 10" slider and use my good blades on it. I just want to make sure that whatever slider I get will be able to handle a stair tread that is 11" wide.
Slider
A 12" slider, had some long compounds to do also and wanted to make sure I had the width capacity while cutting the angle. So far it has been a great saw.
HF 10" SCMS Maximum Cut Size
The spec for HF 10" SCMS model 98199 gives the max cut size as 12". I saw a review that said it is only 10 3/4". What have you found as the max cut size? I'll need at least 11 1/2" to be able to cut the stair treads.
Thank You
Just use a hand held circular saw and a guide. Or buy a real miter saw. I like harbor freight tools generally, but I can't really see a reason to use this tool over a quality circular saw. The blade will be low quality for finish work, it will require tuning to get something close to the indicated setting, it will be loose and unrepeatable, it will have runout in the bearings. I think harbor freight tools are a good value for what they are, I own a bunch of them. They are disposable rough and ready tools of dubious quality though. They have their place, but I don't think this tool offers any advantage over a quality circular saw, like a Bosch, Porter cable, makita, milwaukee etc.