I’ve decided to buy a trailer for my GC/Remodeling business. I know that this topic has been covered before here at BT and I’ve already read through some of those discussions. I’m wondering if anyone has any information about a specific brand. I’m looking at “United Trailers” and was wondering what you all may know about them. How do they rate with the bigger companies like Wells Cargo and Cargomate?
Admittedly I know very little about trailers and want to get the best VALUE for the money. Don’t mind spending extra if I’m getting a higher quality trailer, but don’t want to just pay for a major “brand” name.
Figuring on getting a 6X12 with a ramp door and ladder racks. A friend told me to be sure and get a trailer with brakes or I’ll smoke the rotors in my new truck in the first emergency situation I encounter….sounds right, but I wouldn’t know. Also was told to stay away from paying extra money for “chrome” as it’s usually just aluminum and will quickly “turn” in our New England weather/road salt.
What about axles? Suspension necessary?
Any and all advice and experience shared will be appreciated. Thanks, DP.
Replies
all depends on what you are going to carry and where you live
towing a trailer weighing 2 tons with a 1/2 ton 2 wd pick up in snow will be a an excercise in futility
in fact towing a trailer in snow with any vehicle will be a waste of time
i use a 20 foot flat bed for summer work doing decks and fences but park it for the winter and do inside work
electric brakes are nice for panic stops but for regular driving dont do anything, so be prepared for shorter life on pads(change them often)
the trailer MUST have springs of some kind or it will bounce all over the place empty or full
pintle hooks are much easier to hook up but tend to have some slack in them compared to the usual ball
big thing is weight capacity, ive carried a whole skid of fence boards on my flat bed with no problems, but i felt the weight big time behind my 1 ton van
caulking is not a piece of trim
pintle hooks are much easier to hook up but tend to have some slack in them compared to the usual ball
you might also check: http://www.nosway.com/ an expensive hitch, but FHB quality.
diesel.... i chose the 7x14 after talking to guys here...
the 14' allows 12' stock inside the box..
also ..if you can get the 8' wide with the wheels inside the box instead of outside.. you gain more room but the overall width is the same.
the ramp door they talked me out of.. if you need a ramp use a slide -out.. trying to open a ramp door on a lot of job sites is a pain.. and most of the time you'd be better off with a pair of doors in the back..
you definitely need the side door..
i had "E-track " mounted on the passenger side because most of my weight was going to be on the shelf-side which i put on the deriver side..
the factory ladder racks were well worth it..
definitely get the electric brake.. and thebuilt-in jack stands in the back corners so you can jack the whole thing off the tires on the job site..
i wound up with a Carmate... best price from a local dealer.. and they had the red color i wanted..
dual wheels are appreciated when you get a full load on..
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike,
As usual, you're very helpful. Nice looking trailer/logo. Was thinking about the ramp door for the generator/compressors when working alone, although a "ramp" is pretty easily fashioned on site or elsewhere most of the time. The extra $ saved on the ramp door could be better used elsewhere. Jack stands make good sense as well. Does your trailer have any suspension or is it just a solid axle? I was thinking of the 12' only because I don't have alot of space for it at my house/driveway.
Was thinking that shelves could be built easily enough, why pay for the E-track? Not second guessing you, just trying to learn as much as possible. If you remember, can I ask how much you paid for the Carmate? We are in fairly close proximity to each other and I'll probably be making my purchase in RI because of availability.
One more thing? Is that a box beam header I see in the foreground of your trailer picture? Do you use them much?
Thanks again, Brian
brian... first things first..
a moment of silence for the fat naked guy............
now......straight axles.. no suspension..
E-track was at the suggestion of the guys here.. it does provide the only real tie down points in the box.... if you have anything heavy and unstable... that is how you secure it...i don't use it much ... but it's there..
i think i paid $4200... plus $500 for the electric brake and the fit up for my truck including the box hitch
yes .. that 's a box header, glue nailed .. we use them for the extra insulation they allowMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Almost any trailer you buy will have springs, usually leaf springs. Almost all major trailer manufacturers that I have seen use Dexter axles, so it is likely that similar trailers from different trailer manufacturers will have the same type of Dexter axle.
One thing that I doubt many people check on when towing a trailer is the trailer weight rating of their trailer ball. 2" balls with 3/4 shank are generally rated at about 3,500 lbs (although I have never heard of anyone shearing one off, it is still something to consider). Commercial 2"x2" ball mounts start at 3,500lbs with 5,000 and 6,000 lb ratings being most common.
Don't mean to bust your budget, but would it be possible (considering the type of work you do) to mount inside the trailer (up high, near the front) your generator and compressor?
Then install a couple of retractable reels nearby - one for an air hose, the other(s) for the high tension from the generator. Maybe another for a feed wire from the already powered location to run the compressor and other outlets?
Good ideas and ones I have kicked around a bit myself. But, how would I handle the exhaust factor? I could just let it go, but my generator is actually diesel and occasionally throws out a ton of sticky blue smoke. Framing compressor is a gas Honda wheel barrow. Mounting both up high would make routine maintenance a nightmare. Honestly don't think I'll mind moving them in and out daily as both have wheel kits. I use a twin stack for the finish work or working alone and try like hel l to avoid running that off my generator.
Don't worry about my budget though...just keep the good "tricked out" ideas coming. I've got an extra Cambridge Sound Works Ensamble speaker system hanging around that I'd like to hook up there as well!
Anyone know how I'd go about powering a dash mount type stereo in the trailer? Is it possible to do it through the 7 way round connector?
EDITED for spelling
Edited 2/27/2004 10:00:30 PM ET by dieselpig
I beleave a seven way round conector has one terminal for accsessorys, like an over head light. that should be 12 volt and I think all car stereos are 12 volt power.
Just wire it like you would a light for inside your trailer, A ground and a hot feed . ground to the frame so you have a good connection. and a feed from the plug (7 round) accs. you might already have it hooked up on your truck. mine is there already as i have it rigged for my camper .
Hope this helps Dogboy
Do you guys with the bigger trailers have the automatic electric brake actuation with a cable that attaches from the trailer to the pickup? Do you have problems with batteries with those units?
my trailer lights and braking system plug in with the cable right next to the hitch..
and ,no, i've never had a problem with my battery sice we got the hook up two years agoMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Ya what Mike said, plus the one I've got has a small 12 volt battery that takes a charge from the connection/ 7 wire plug. The trailer has a breakaway that if it gets away the safety plug is pulled and the brakes are put on. don't know if it works but hope I don't find out.
Clay
Sounds good so far. Brakes are a MUST have. And I would go for the ramp door. E tracks are great. And you got aluminum. Nice and light.
Have fun!Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
"you definitely need the side door.."
Why, Mike? Never had the pleasure of working out of a nice cargo trailer, but I've always thought side doors would be extra expense, lost wall space, and one more point of entry to secure against theft.
You use yours often?
Jon Blakemore
jon..the trailer is only 7 ' wide... it's real easy to get the back jammed with equipment and the thing you need is up in the bow..
with the front side door , you still have access.... i don't hink i could funtion with our 7x14 if it didn't have both the rear doubles and the front side singleMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Jon,
"you definitely need the side door.."
When moving large items like cabinets than need two guys to fit in the trailer but don't leave enough room along side. The side door provides a better trip for that first guy.....he doesn't have to ride in the trailer to the job. Also provides access to the tools in the front of a loaded trailer or access when the trailer must be backed up to a wall to park.
My advise is to get a side door....but the smallest available.
gk
I'll differ with steve on the usefulness of the brakes....when properly adjusted, and with a good (and properly configured) controller, they do work at all braking levels.
I pull various trailers several thousand miles per year, from flatbed to RV.
The best brake controller on the market is the Prodigy. Don't bother with anything less. Set it up properly -- after loading your junk into the trailer, take it to a big parking lot and play around with it -- soon you'll get a feel for the proper setttings....I tune mine now "on the fly" based on the load.
Dieselpig,
I've got a 7x14 dual axle. Torsion springs on it rides smooth, even in the rough country. Dual doors in the back, side door. Mine will take 14' material inside. Get the brakes, as others said, they come in handy. Couldn't stop mine in the winter without them. Got about 4500 in it, and the truck setup. Although, my truck was pretty much ready. Just had to wire the controller, and auxiliary wiring for 12v lights, inside the trailer. Pull mine with a 2000 F-350 4x4 dually dump. Fully loaded, I can hardly tell it is back there. Since I bought the trailer, my other pickup hasn't left the driveway. The old crossover box just doesn't hold enough tool anymore. How come we need so much stuff? Used to be able to build a home with a circular saw, and a pair or two of horses. Used to drive all the nails by hand too! Boy, I miss those days! Once you get your trailer set up, you will wonder why you waited so long to get one. Never have to run back to the shop for forgoten tool anymore!.
Ill try to post some pics, of my setup, in the next couple of days.
Brudoggie
That'd be great! I'd love to see how other guys set their trailers up, but I was afraid to ask as I know it's been covered before.
I hear you about the plethora of tools. Used to run a framing crew out of a Ford Ranger with a 8' bed, cross over box, small diamond plate chest and a set of ladder racks. Since I made the cross over into the remodeling world I've got to carry more tools around than I can believe. Can't be leaving the 10" Makita slider and table saw laying around in the bed of my truck. I upgraded to a 2002 F-350 diesel utility body a year and a half ago.....still can't fit everything in it. Hate loading and unloading the bed of my truck every morning/night. Nice to keep a small plumbing box around, electrical box, painting tools bucket, drywall tools bucket, tile bucket.......when does it end?
I try so hard to be thorough in my preperation for the next day's work. Nothing makes me angrier than getting to a job site and realizing I don't have what I wish I had with me. I end up struggling through a task that would be ten times easier and faster if I had the right tool/bit/blade/brush or whatever with me!
I've got a car-mate trailer with a ramp back door, and now that I have it I wouldn't change it for nothing. After getting it I went out and bought the Rigid Table saw mounted to the stand with wheels that folds up from H.D. then I got a new DeWALT 12 in slide comp miter saw and also bought the miter stand from H.D. that also folds and has wheels. and the ramp makes setting both so slick and easy.
With two shelves up front that hold a lot of stuff. I plan to once it warms up enough to empty it , to cover the wall on the left with 3/8 in plywood screwed to studs in wall so ill have plenty of thickness to mount anything to it. using straps / whatever. the plywood is only 1/4 in thick and the studs cant be more then 2 x 2s so they don't have much to them on there own and my thought is make the whole wall one unit by gluing and screwing it all to gether .
I might also do the same on the other side as that's where I strap my tablesaw and mitersaw up against the wall.
I'm getting older and stiffer and the ramp just gives me one less thing I need to climb up into. Roll everything out and roll it back in when im done . I even helped a friend move a piano in it and the ramp came in handy .
someday ill post some pics.
Also; it has springs , no electric brakes , and I haul it with a Dodge 4x4 ram pickup. that I've used to back it up onto some yards with 10in of snow with no getting stuck. I've gotten stuck on ice and 1in of snow in two wheel drive and it wouldn't move till I put it into 4 wheel drive. in Maine I wouldn't even try to get by without 4 wheel drive while trying to haul it.
Dogboy
Thanks to you and all others for their advice. Driving down to RI today to have a look at those "United trailers" and maybe a few others. Here's the "must have's" so far:
1. brakes
2. leaf springs
3. ladder racks
4. still on the fence regarding the ramp door
My F-350 has 4X4 and is diesel, so no worries regarding dragging it around in the snow. Not really planning on loading it down with much more than tools. Truck will do most of the heavy hauling (lumber, shingles, blue-board etc). Also my truck is a utility body so a good deal of tools will stay on the rig. Will let you all know how my decision is coming along.
Gotta wait for the tax man to get back to me anyway! :)
EDIT: For those of you with trailers already: Keep those pictures of your set up coming!
Edited 2/27/2004 9:52:29 AM ET by dieselpig
I actually went to one of there manufacturing sites as I was researching trailers. It was on my way as I was traveling across the country.
I don't know if you followed this thread? So take a look.
Clay
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=40236.1
Clay and all,
Thanks for the link and info. Alright, just got back from the trailer lot and here's what I put a refundable deposit on:
2004 7X12 CargoPro in a lovely Charcoal to match the year old F-350
38" V nose will allow transportation of 12' stock
Double rear doors
32" side door
3 alum. ladder racks
all aluminum construction w/ 16" OC studs and ceiling
Roof vent, 2 dome lights, 1 light on wall inside side door
6000#GVW
dually 3500lb Torsion ride axles with EZ lube hubs
10" electric brakes
1300lb curb weight
4700lb Payload capacity
Diamond plate stone guard
3 year warranty on trailer, 1 year warranty on axles
Total cost including wiring, ball, and brake controller installation = $4895
How'my doin so far?
I've had both doored and ramped trailers... I'll never have another with rear swinging doors. The ramp has it hands down. So convienent and you avoid lifting heavy or bulky stuff in and out of the trailer..
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
diesel...got mine in Feb. '02.. same specs as yours except..
7x14
CAR*MATE.. 7000 # gvw..
rear swing down stabilizer jacks,
high & low row of E-track on door side
i paid $4133 + tax
and then i paid $500 for a class IV hitch & ball and the wiring for the electric brake..
no complaints..Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
bigger is about always better... 20' would be nice... ladder racks (use 4 spaced out if you can) and and awning in the side... I haven't seen anyone mention the side pullout awning... but if you had it you'd never be sorry... I'm not a huge fan of dexter axels vs leaf springs.... if you can find a rivited or flush side trailer vs the self drilling screw type you are looking at a quality trailer...
hey... mine has rivets.. does that make it a quality trailer ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I don't have my own trailer, but have worked alongside a carpenter with a nice one recentley. I think 7' tall needs to be on the must list. The salesman suggested this with his and it was definetly worth the extra money.It is much more comfortable than a 6'. Good luck-every one of these threads leads me closer to buying one.
Diesel,
just to throw my three cents worth into the mix. First off bigger is better. I pull a 24 x 8 ft enclosed with the ramp door. It is 8 ft on the inside(102" over all width. I STILL DON'T HAVE ENOUGH SPACE!!! anyway since your deposit is nonrefundable consider this: I have a friend who is also in the business who is selling his trailer. Same size as mine. It is a 97 or 98 Pace with torsion axles which are far better and much more troublefree than the springs. He has taken extremely good care of this trailer and it is in near new condition. It is also set up with shelves on both sides and 110 wiring inside , has the generator door and the side door. He wants 4500$for it which is well worth it considering all the work he has done inside of it and the way it has been taken care of.
Your F350 will more than handle it as that is what I pull mine with. And mine is two wheel drive. We are in north eastern ohio.
Whatever you do I would highly recommend doing what I did with mine. I built a cabinet of drawers with movable dividers and fullextension ball bearing slides to store all the miscellaneous tools and supplies that always seem to get tossed into one giant unorganized pile. It helps a lot although every few weeks we still have to go thru and straighten everything up. I have tried box vans etc . and this is the best setup I have found . If you would like information email me and I will put you in contact with him, but in any case good luck with your decision. Even a small trailer is better than no trailer.
Have a good one
Mark
Mark, I appreciate your good intentions, but if you read my posts you'd notice that I said I only have room at my house for a 12'er. I own a little 1/2 acre lot with a 32' Cape and about a 20' single wide driveway. Can't park on the street in the winter either. Between the F-350 and the plow, my wife can just barely squeeze her little '02 Honda in the driveway! She would murder me if I can home with a 20'er!!!! As much as I'd like to :) I appreciate your enthusiasm though. This trailer I'm considered does at least have a 6'5" interior height.
Got any pictures of the inside of that monster of yours?
Diesel,
I will try to take some pics for you especially of the cabinet of drawers. I will have to clean it up first though...... It has been a long winter and it is nearly impossible to keep it nice tracking in mud etc. The biggest problem I have is keeping all the different things organised and limiting what I put in it. I do so many different things that it means having a ton of tools for several different trades. I usually work on one job for ahile so I leave it on the job most of the time. Haven't moved it in three months now . And I probably wont for at least another month. Anyway your F350 won't even know that 12 footer is behind it. Good luck with it.
Mark
mark... i know what you're saying about the organization.. i go crazy.. with me and 3 guys working out of there.. and usually 3 job sites... it's a wonder we can find
anything
oneadesedays.. going to finish draining the swamp soons i kill this next alligatorMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Sounds like it's gonna be a good one for your needs. Like everybody says your gonna wonder why you waited so long.
Just makes the job more enjoyable.
Clay
Diesel,
I thought of a couple more things for you while I was in my trailer today. Make a cord and airhose rack and hang it on one side of your trailer about 4 inches from the ceiling. I did mine from a piece of eighth inch plate and one and a quarter inch square tubing. I have four or five separtate arms coming out with angle braces underneath welded to the plate which is then screwed to the sidewall of the trailer. this makes good use of otherwise wasted space and it sure helps in terms of keeping your cords and airhoses organised and tangle free. Ok MOSTLY tangle free.
the same approach works well for holding stepladders etc. but you may not have enough room for that. you wanted a pic of my "monster" to use your word . I do have one taken last fall with the door down. it isn't too organised in this pic because it has a lot of leftover material left from another job
as you will see in this pic I also have a flatbed gooseneck that comes in handy as well
Mark
sorry I messed it up the first time, I am posting one for you guys with dsl and one for those of you with dialup.
So Like I'm thinking that's the diving board I'm looking at, or the latest security invention. Burry the trailer on the job and nobody can pull it out(steal it).
Took maybe 3 seconds to open first jpg.
Clay
Clay,
Shhhh, don't tell anyone but we're working on a secret project for the CIA. The trailer is just for show. LOL. Someone said that Jimmmy Hoffa was buried there.
later dude
I saw a neat way to anchor shelving to the trailer walls. An electrician attached steel c channel horizontally at top, bottom, and middle then had steel shelving bolted to the channel with a small threaded block that slid in the channeling this made a real stable setup that was adjustable.
ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
Remodeler/Punchout
I drive a 1 ton cut a way van with a Spartan box. One thing that I did was use wire shelving that you buy for closets. I turned them upside down so the lip is up to retain everything during transit. I really like the set up as it holds everything, if I need it I can add a bungee cord and tie something down to the shelves but most of all I am not constantly cleaning the shelves as the dirt falls through. You can buy that shelving in various widths and lengths. DanT
you wont get 12 footers in a 12 foot trailer. I bought an 18 foot carmate so I could get 16 foot trim inside. a ramp gate is nice for rolling tools, but I got doors. I just finished a job where I had to do a lot of cutting outside in 5 degree weather. I set up my compound miter in the trailor and plugged in a Quartz heater and kept the doors closed most of the time. could'nt do that with a ramp gate.
Also electric brakes when set correctly work in all stopping situations.
Mav,
The "V" nose will allow me to get a fair amount of 12' stock down the middle of the trailer. In most trailers the middle is the only open floor space anyway. I've got about a 2' wide path down the middle which I plan to keep open to allow room for stock. Any jobs requiring more stock than I can fit in that space I would ordinarily be getting a delivery on anyway. But thanks for your experience. :)