Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 14, 2000 08:13am | #1

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   Done that.... I`d get a mounting box for the drain discharge, if I were finishing it off with drywall. Then, the hose would slip into the box, then straight down into a p-trap, then across and down to the main waste. Why not put an access panel on the wall covering the P-trap? I know HomeDepot carries the 2" in a glue type and a slipnut/removable p-trap configurations

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 14, 2000 09:13am | #2

   *Ben There, don't go any smaller than the 2" or you'll wish you hadn't gone there. Washers flow a lot of water when they pump, any restriction will be a problem & result in overflow. Been there, got the mop to prove it! Joe H

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   Guest_ | Jan 14, 2000 11:49am | #3

   *Get a washer box. Mount it in the wall. Block the bejesus out of it in addition to the nail tabs. Plumb with 2" cast iron straight down to the plate. At the bottom of the plate put in your trap. No access necessary, and why would need it? You can snake from the box. Get the "one turn" stop valves if you can find them, one turn shuts off both hot and cold. They can be tough to find. Stuff the stud cavity with some insulation to cut down on sound. Purchase the highest quality braided supply lines to the washer.Hope this helps.

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   Guest_ | Jan 15, 2000 12:54am | #5

   *I wouldn't overlook the inevitable clog -- washers put out a lot of lint. You may need access some day. I use a lint filter -- one of those mesh socks -- over the output hose, and it clogs in a couple of weeks. Glad it isn't going into the waste system.

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   ben_there | Jan 15, 2000 12:54am | #4

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   installing a washer outlet, what is the proper way to plumb in a washer outlet, as far as the trap is concerned?? the outlet is for 2" pvc and is it ok to bury it behind the drywall?? do they make a 2" trap??? thanks!!!