From Wisconsin:I want to install a tray ceiling in my master bedroom. The room is 101/2 by 13. The ceiling is vaulted, rises 1′ from the 9′ outside wall. I am looking for ideas on how to frame the tray for the sheetrock.
Thanks for the help
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Well, Greetings and welcome to BT!
(fill in your Profile, hint, hint--but you did good in the post by giving a location)
Ok, you said "tray." That may need defining, since that's a furred ceiling with an angle some places, a square "turn up" others; and, in some places, a "coffered" ceiling.
From what I remember from folks in the MW, I'm guessing you mean the ceiling comes up at an angle, then turns flat, and comes down at an angle on the other side. Which can be two-sided or three, four, and "all" sided arounf the room. The effect being a bit like a 1.75 "storied" house where the bottom of the rafters are "ceiled."
If you are running wall board up the walls, over the bottoms of rafters, and then along ceiling joists, well, the framing is what it is. The ceiling joists have to connect carefully to the rafters for their structural use, and for "telegraphing" the straight, plumb, & true through the wall board. Which may be why places will tend to "strap" instead, so that the strapping can be shimmed true.
If, instead, you just need a furr down, that's different. I like framing furr downs as a piece and lifting them into place on the framing--but that's a bias from being able to tug and twist them into straight, true and plumb, too.
Thanx for the help. I decided to just throw some 2x4 up there and it works fine. I built two steps, each the thickness of the 2x4, with the one on the ceiling being 16" wide and the next one 8" wide. The rock guys will just have to go around all the corners.
How do I fill in my profile as you suggest?
How do I fill in my profile as you suggest?
Where your name appears in blue, click on that.
Or, in the orange-ish baner across the top of the screen, on the far right it has an un-edged button labeled "Update Profile."
Sounds like you built some "ladder frames" and set those in place on the existing framing. Which works nicely enough. Can get to some on-site debating whether the "bottom" frame ought be "flat" or "on edge," though. Ductwork sometimes simpler if framed 1-1/2 "deep" vertically--sometimes not, too (ain't that just the way of it though?)Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)