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Hi,
I used Trex on a new construction which is 1 yr. old now. All the points you made were true. Very easy to work with, screws easily, etc. The downsides I see now are that it needs a lot more support than wood, and moisture will change the color of the decking. Makes it look like its stained. Once the dampness evaporates, its back to normal. On this installation there is a PVC line going from the basement, under the porch, into the yard to the septic. This sucker must be sweating and the moisture shows up on the Trex above. Usually only seen in the AM. This is partly my fault because I let my wife talk me into installing the Trex edges tightly against one another. It basically seals the underside of the porch, and air can’t escape or move. Also makes it hard to keep the crevices between planks swept out.
Overall, I’d use it again, but would space it appropriately, and would put supports even closer together than Trex recommends. It looks nice, has no splinters, and I won’t have to stain or seal it.
Tom
Replies
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Hi,
I used Trex on a new construction which is 1 yr. old now. All the points you made were true. Very easy to work with, screws easily, etc. The downsides I see now are that it needs a lot more support than wood, and moisture will change the color of the decking. Makes it look like its stained. Once the dampness evaporates, its back to normal. On this installation there is a PVC line going from the basement, under the porch, into the yard to the septic. This sucker must be sweating and the moisture shows up on the Trex above. Usually only seen in the AM. This is partly my fault because I let my wife talk me into installing the Trex edges tightly against one another. It basically seals the underside of the porch, and air can't escape or move. Also makes it hard to keep the crevices between planks swept out.
Overall, I'd use it again, but would space it appropriately, and would put supports even closer together than Trex recommends. It looks nice, has no splinters, and I won't have to stain or seal it.
Tom
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I like it. See the archives. It's fun to mill, bend, drill, even glue with PVC cement. Trex's biggest fault is it ain't wood. Timbertech is totally different.
The literature tells you to space it, and the substructure neesds to dry, too. It does absorb and release water.
*Tom I have been researching this Trex material for a couple of weeks (still not sure if I am going to use it) now and you would recommend closer than 16" o.c. due to the sun/heat making the Trex plyable also interested in your aprox. location and pricing. I am in the Chicagoland area where Trex is 12' - $2016' - $2420' - $32seems expensive, just curious what its like in your neck of the woods. Trying to weight all options before committing. Thanks for the helpDan
*Andrew,How is it over the long haul? What's the oldest installation you've got?Here (TN) it's all pressure treated decking and it only lasts about 12 years, so granted, it doesn't need to last that long to win, but I'd hate to steer a client into an expensive and short-lived product.You say it mills easily too, do you mean with standard router bits? It takes an edge nicely huh?Dan
*Mills beautifully -- as it is completely homogeneous. I relieved most of the 90• corners with a 1/2" roundover bit. I'd like to play around some more with it, and may get a chance to this summer with a client whose pt deck is a disgrace.Oldest and only installation is my deck, at about a year. The only problem I've heard of, assuming that the deck was designed right to begin with, is with staining from certain kinds of mud. I think that was brought up here. If I get a chance, I'll clean mine and post a picture. At the moment, it's kind of a staging area for an upstairs addition and hasn't been treated with much respect. :)It really is kinda fun to work with -- bend it, glue it, shape it -- get a scrap and try it. I left a couple pieces sitting in the mud all winter and they're no worse for wear. On the deck, I underspanned and used 2x boards set at about 30°. Its main problem is that it just ain't wood, so isn't particularly nice to look at -- no worse than the bland pt EVERYONE has, however. On the other hand -- vs. cedar or redwood -- it is tough, stable (no splinters, cracks, cups, splits etc.), no-maintenance (e.g., sealing/staining), recycled material, zero forest impact, perfectly straight (assuming you don't bend it by accident or design) and critter-proof ... and much preferable to pt in my book.I fastened it from below with Deckb*stard and construction adehesive. Next time I'd like to try screws and create a good filler from VERY fine Trex dust and a solvent -- our efforts to seal the screw holes on the stair treads came out -almost- invisible. Oatmeal rather than grain has its benefits.I'd like to play with staining it, as it takes stain fine -- the catch is that if you seal it -- as in causing water to bead on the surface rather than soak in -- you loose the impressive traction it provides. So ... maybe try a non-sealing stain?Someday they'll figure out how to fake grain and the fibrous strength of real wood. I'm no deckbuilding pro, but I was very pleased, as in I got what I expected to get plus some.
*.....The forerunner to Trex has been out a long time .. and right here in town we've got one of those progressive playgrounds where they used the material exclusively, been in place about 15 years..some of my installations have been around for 5 years..Andrew, our first job out , we plugged all the screw holes with trex bungs and epoxy glue, just use a standard bung cutter...we use 3/8" for most of the deck screws.....we don't normally bung them though... we use SS. square drive and leave them winkin in the sun...we got a guy in town who makes bungs from any material , and he ran off 500 for me, but i wouldn't hesitate to make my own...or find the guy around you who makes bungs and put him onto it .... i'm sure he'll find a market for trx bung holes....
*Would he be a "bungmaster"? Ha, I only knew the risque meaning of the word. Let's call 'em plugs, OK? And Trex should market exactly what you suggest.Main Entry: 1bungPronunciation: 'b&[ng]Function: nounEtymology: Middle English, from Middle Dutch bonne, bongheDate: 15th century1 : the stopper especially in the bunghole of a cask; also : BUNGHOLE2 : the cecum or anus especially of a slaughtered animal
*....Andrew...actually, Jamestown Distributors, sells them in all species of wood, in different sizes, thru their marine supply catalog...they'll special order Trex, but they didin't have 'em when i did the job....still got a couple hundred..want some?
*sure!
*I am an avid do-it-yourselfer and have used Trex on two small projects. The first was steps for a brick patio. Framed the steps in PT for strength and "sheathed" in Trex 5/4 board. Trex turns grey with age (which was great in my case since my house is grey). Don't believe all they say about no "shrinkage". Faced the risers with 5/4 board with 45 degree miters at corners which have since 'gapped'. Maybe not as bad as PT pine. Also steps are in shaded area and are developing what I beleive is mold/mild. Do not know if PT pine would be any different in this case. Have not yet tried 'Clorox' mix to see if I can remove staining (actually looks more like grease spots, but nothing nearby i.e. grill). Steps have been in place 5 years. No other deteriation noted.Second project was 6' by 6' sandbox and used Trex for seating since it appears to be ideal for eliminating splinters. Due to bullnose, mitered corners. Just looked at it after Mid-Atlantic winterand noticed gaps of approx. 3/16", will see if they go away as weather warms up. But, they do make a great seating material. Used stainless steel trim screws in both apps ($$$) and have had no problems with staining. I'm not particular and used grey Dap acrylic latex caulk to cover recessed trim screws and it appears to blend perfectly as boards age. Don't know how this would stand up on deck surface with traffic.All Trex was 'shed' kept at the lumber yard and was dry when I worked with it. One note.. It is a recycled material. CAREFULLY inspect boards before placing as I found pieces of plastic (varying colors) and even nails in the material (in one case actually sliced my hand while handling material).
*Interesting.And how long has the sandbox been there?Dan
*Walter,Do you think the fact that you wrapped the PT lumber with the Trex, that maybe the structure expanded rather than the Trex shrinking. Wadya think? Would like to get a good idea about this stuff befor I use it. Thanks.
*Seems plausible Calvin, where exactly is the Glass City?
*...Trex is a plastic with wood fibers... the gaps are a function of temperature.. if you're laying it cold you have to gap it.. it will expand in the summer... Trex literature will tell you the correct end for end gaps... and the side to side gap is a 16d common nail...don't lay it tight side to side..they also sell a little plastic gapping tool but it's the same as a 16D common (or close enough) and you don't have to share.....if you are milling it and using it for decorative trim , you can use glue and bicuits and your joints will stay true... just remember.. it will expand and contract with temperature...
*Toledo, Ohio.
*I've built four decks with 'Trex', about one a year.I prefer to use the material only in the warm months because it takes screws better than when it's cold.The screws will cause the material to mushroom around the heads, then I tap it back over the top to cove the screw heads. I alawys use 16" O.C. and it seams to work fine.It also machines nicely. Yes, it's a bit pricey compared to treated lumber, but you can use this as a selling point as you don't have to maintain it. It's available to weather grey or brown also.I wish it was available when I built my deck.
*I'm curious if anyone has ever used a product called "Choice Deck?" I'm building a new home and priced several of the synthetic deck materials and chose Choice Deck mainly due to the price. Its much cheaper than Trex, has a 20 year warranty and looks good. It will also weather to a "Concrete gray" the same as Trex.
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Is the verdict in yet?
I haven't used it and am wondering what all-of-y'all's experience is. I know it's easy to cut and screw and is straight and true, but how about longevity? I read a thread earlier about a nightmare with TimberTeck decking and am wondering what kind of feedback youse guys have.
Screwing off,
Dan