TRIM CARP. – How do you fix this one?
Mission: Install sliding closet doors.
Simple enough, eh?
It looked like a simple closet.
It turned out to be a parallelogram, 3/4″ out with additional subtle geometric twists. (Anyone watch what they are framing? “Square is not in contract.”)
OK, use all the adjustments in the hangers. Still has gaps, but not as horrible.
However, while the side next to the outside wall is plumb, the wall on the other side is more than a bit out of plumb. The bottom projects into the room.
If the door divider fitting at the bottom is set so the plumb side has a consistent reveal, over on the bad side the outer slider is flush with the DW at top, and about 1″+ back at the bottom.
What are your suggestions for fixes? Trim this closet out with case and quarter round
Fixes involving arson or car bombs have already been made and rejected.)
The ToolBear
“Never met a man who couldn’t teach me something.” Anon.
Replies
block of wood and a sledge..tweak the wall closer to plumb. Ya might not get it all..but a little helps a lot.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I'll just do it>
Shpere
@@ block of wood and a sledge..tweak the wall closer to plumb. Ya might not get it all..but a little helps a lot.
Would that not gomer up the drywall and corner bead? I will ask.
They have BTDT - just inside the doorway is a rather hack DW patch. They opened the hall wall and did a bit of retroactive layout adjustment with a sledge. I guess they could not get the door to work otherwise.
(This hooch seems to have a few framing issues. I was up in the San Juans at the time. I have witnesses.)The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Gomer up the DW? yes an no..someone has to be ACCOUNTABLE for it getting this far..I'd sign the Gomer fixit to THAT person..but hey..I'm not there to see it happen.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I'll just do it>
Yes, a spherical sledge comes to mind first. Next-Sawzall, or chainsaw if really bad. Set nails if using chainsaw.
Reread the post. Seems like it's not so much that the opening is a parallelogram, but rather the walls lean out on top?Can you set the doors further back to disguise the angles?Put a floor track of some sort down to keep them in plane with the out of plumb walls?Sledge hammer sounds good, you decide if repairing drywall is better than having out of kilter doors!
Yes, I could hide most of the paralleogram with casing and quarter round, but the wall leans in. The foot is further out into the room than the top.
Might be able to move doors in a bit. Have not set the door divider yet pending a decision from the Powers That Be. Can plumb them, can hold them in or out a bit.The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Turn the lights off.
As mentioned above, a slegehammer used appropriately can render som amazing results. Remember to re-fasten the wall in its new location.
If this is not an option (short walls... finished floor) set he upper track as far back into the opening as possible. If this is a drywalled opening, you could remove the drywall and replace with a regular jamb and casing. Cheat the bottom of the jamb ouside the opening and angle the casing back to the wall to give the appearance of plumb.
Be Constructive
Gord
St.Margaret's Bay NS
Try bypass door guides:
http://www.johnsonhardware.com/parts5.htm
Or threshhold track (scroll to bottom):
http://www.johnsonhardware.com/200sd.htm
Billy
It comes with a guide - but when it looks good on the right, it looks like a big wedge on the left.
Split the diff.?
Trim is genuine DW. The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
First try splitting the diff and that doesn't work you may have to glue & tack on a wedge on the jamb side of the door. Or you can pop off the casing, add another jamb on one side to make the opening narrower and trim the door at an angle. You may have to butcher the original butcher job if you can't tweak it.
So they are bifolds and not bypass sliders?
Billy
They are sliders and the closet is cased in the finest white drywall.The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
if you go the adjust-the-framing route, I'd reccomend trying a small bottle jack (like for jacking up a car) with some blocks of wood on either side.I find it easier to control than bashing it with a sledge. This might me an asset since drywall is allready installed and you obviously dont want to do anymore drywall patching than you havto.-->
measure once
scribble several lines
spend some time figuring out wich scribble
cut the wrong line
get mad
do i understand correctly? I drew i diagram of what i think that you have indicated. is it correct?--> EDIT: I just reread your post and realized that i had mis-understood. Perhaps you could draw it with MS-paint or somthing so we could look at it.measure once
scribble several lines
spend some time figuring out wich scribble
cut the wrong line
get mad
Edited 1/7/2005 4:29 am ET by skyecore
Jelly Jam, & Case the opening, send the bill to the HackMaster!
Hang a beaded curtain.
Could you trim out the outside edge with 1 1/2" x 3/4' material , sides and top, then trim this with casing (to match the windows)? Then hang the bi-fold inside this, it will give you 1-1/2" to play with.
Looks okay from my place.....'I've no desire to hang around with a bunch of upper-class delinquents, do twenty minutes' work and then spend the rest of the day loafing about in Paris drinking gallons of champagne and having dozens of highly experienced French peasant girls galloping up and down my - hang on...' "Black Adder" (Rowan Atkinson)
There's a million ways to fix it but you have to pick the best one for you that's comfortable for you.
If you don't use a sledge and smash it and crack anything and want to be a little gentle one way is to pull the nails out of the liners/trimmers and then cut them with a circular saw a little bit on each side but that creates dust close it off.
Another way is to pull the base back out of the way which it probably is and cut the nails with a sawzall at the bottom of your king studs and liners/trimmers where they sit on top of the shoe or bottom plate right through the sheetrock because the base and casing will cover it later then cut the nails where the sheetrock is nailed into the king studs and liners.
Once you've done that you can move the king studs and liners plumb in and out and side by side and the shoe stays where it is and if you have to move the king studs and liners in and out then you can just chisel off the piece of shoe that sticks out once you've nailed everything back in plumb.
Doing it like that is quick and easy and the sheetrock on the bottom when cut is only 1-1/2" up so it will all be covered.