When installing shoe mouldings, what is the proper
procedure when it protrudes past the door frame?
I’ve seen flat cuts (ugly) and angles (only so-so
looking). If the angle is the only solution, how do I figure it? Thanks for your help!
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Mark your shoe at the spot where it begins protruding and cut it back at 22.5 degrees or more. Whatever looks good to you will work.
Coming to you from beautiful Richmond, Va.
Why not try a radius .
I aproach this three different ways....each dependent upon the specifics of the project.
Never square cut them.
First possibility is as you mentioned.....cutting them back on an angle. Usually a 22.5 degree cut. I make this cut leaving about an eighth of an inch thick square cut remaining against the base.
Second.....the radius. Using a jigsaw, by eye, cut the end rounded.
Finally.....return it back into the base with a miter.
I don`t splain as well as I carpent.....if ya needs clarification on anything...give a holler.
Screw Pete!
Gabe for Governor!
I got a fourth... a cove cut into the end of the shoe. Start by cutting it square and then mount a large sanding drum in a drill press and cove the end of the piece. Leave about 1/8" of the square end so it hits the casing. Make a jig on the drill press so that you can do rights and lefts.
I actually think shoe looks terrible most of the time, because it sticks out past the casing. I'd rather scribe the base to the floor.
Return the shoe to the wall. If you do it just as it touches the case (returned to the baseboard) it is easier but is a dust and dirt catcher. You can return it onto the casing itself which requires a rabbet cut, a very sharp chisel should do. You can shape the return by rasp and sander or by miter saw. Whichever looks best to you or works best. A mitered return yields a crisper corner but can be frustrating to fit and rabbet; shave the rabbet into the return piece before you miter cut it off the stock, glue in place. A micro pinner is good to have here.
Next time scribe to the floor or use a plinth block for the casing to sit on that is thicker than the baseboard thickness + shoe thickness + 1/16"
A forstner bit works just as well...I made some incredible copes thata way. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Time, time, time look what's become of us..Time is all we have, spend it wisely with fervor..dance for no reason, love with out plans and live without worries..we all can.
Mine have a radius treatment, but for some replacement I tried that and I don't like how the end took stain. On the next room, I'm going to try returns.
You have way too much time on your hands if you can spend more than a passing glance at the stain patern on the end of a shoe. Knock off the corner so there isn't a point for brooms, mops or a vacuum to catch on and start nailing the next one.
He must be walking on all fours.
If you have the option do what you think looks best.
If production matters the 22 1/2 degree is fastest, personally I like 30 degrees with 1/8 inch left on butt end.
I have been told if end grain is sanded two grits finer the stain color is closer. That would also require more time.
Returning it on itself gets rid of end grain but leaves a void on top that is noticeable.