Replies

1. 
   CDD | Mar 13, 2002 02:05am | #1

   *
   You can do that but it is messy for the most part and you never seem to get it even. Two other ways to go about it: 1) Cut the drywall out where the trim will go, which doesn't always look great, or 2) build the trim up where it meets the door jamb. Cut thin strips of wood the thickness of the protruding drywall, apply to jamb with the same reveal you will use for the trim, apply trim, then caulk.

1. 
   Timothy_Finn | Mar 13, 2002 02:27am | #2

   *Go with suggestion #2. I spent about three hours trimming one door in an old house today. The door was set in about 3/4" from the plaster. Had to strip out pieces for all 3 sides. Plus had to notch where the metal threshhold met the base of the trim. Whoever these people had put that door in obviously never planned to trim it out.

1. 
   alan_senoj | Mar 13, 2002 02:35am | #3

   *ShawnThat's the way I learned it (God! could it really be almost thirty years ago?) and still do it.I think what CCD is suggesting we call Jamb extensions and I would use them when the jamb of the window or door was essentially the wrong depth. i.e some windows are built assuming 3/8" sheathing. When installed in, say, a reno with 3/4" planks the jambs must be built out the extra 3/8".Alan

1. 
   ken_hill | Mar 13, 2002 08:20am | #4

   *What do you guys do when the drywall protrudes at the head, but goes to zero at the bottom? Tapered extensions, scribed? I've got one I've gotta do- old house with funky wall framing. -Ken

1. 
   George_Oliver | Mar 13, 2002 09:35am | #5

   *or extend and plane, kenGO

2. 
   alan_r. | Mar 13, 2002 10:38am | #6

   *Or back cut the trim. This only works on certain profiles, but i can't imagine it being worse than crushing the drywall.You could also rehang the door flush to one surface -you would then only have to worry about the other side. Unless (Ho-Ho) it's a crosslegged jamb.Crazylegs had a good article in FHB a few issues back about windows - specifically addressed differences you're sure to find in the measurements at each corner of the window. Tapered jamb extensions, etc.

3. 
   Jim_Walters | Mar 13, 2002 01:59pm | #7

   *I think it all depends on how much the difference is. If it's less than 1/4 I fracture the drywall or cut it back at an angle...adjust the mitre a little and it fits just fine. More than a 1/4 I add jamb extension. More at the top or bottom I set the trim by cutting back the drywall or knocking the jamb a little out of plumb....sometimes both. Whatever way you do it, it should look good without any tell-tale signs after the trim is applied.