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I’ve installed an interior pocket door using a Stanley hardware kit and would appreciate any good tips on trimming it out. All info I have been able to find (including an article from FHB) give some details, such as screwing one side of the split head jamb to the header to enable future door removal. does the split side jamb need any special mounting? is it best to attach the split jambs to the casing only? The metal slim studs have narrow litle slots spaced along their lengths. Do you nail through those?
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Ok I have seen this post for a few days and I will tell you what we have done to trim out a pocket door. We throw the little metal encapsulated studs away. In their place we put a sheet of 3/4" MDF or particle board. This gives you a solid surface behind the drywall. At the edge of the opening where there will be casing and a jamb we screw a piece of 1/2" thick wood to the MDF that is small enough to hide behind the casing and because it is 1/2" thick it planes out with the drywall. This gives you backing 1.25" thick to attach your jamb to, backing for the drywall, and you cannot see it . ( the drywall and casing cover it). Also this gives you backing for your base board, chair rail etc. Hope this helps.
Dormer
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I've installed an interior pocket door using a Stanley hardware kit and would appreciate any good tips on trimming it out. All info I have been able to find (including an article from FHB) give some details, such as screwing one side of the split head jamb to the header to enable future door removal. does the split side jamb need any special mounting? is it best to attach the split jambs to the casing only? The metal slim studs have narrow litle slots spaced along their lengths. Do you nail through those?