Most of the window and door jambs I’m planning to trim are proud of the sheetrock, some by as much as a quarter inch. My best solution is a two piece system. Flat stock on the jamb, with a rabbeted band a quarter inch thicker than the flat stock. The rabbet would sit on the outside edge of the flat stock. The extra band thickness would allow me to scribe the back edge of the band to the rock until the rabbet hit home. A couple areas are the opposite. The rock is further out than the edge of the jamb. I know a few of the old tricks, like planing the jamb edges, crushing the rock, etc. I should mention that the lady and I are living in the house, so power tools and dust are out of the question. I’m a newcomer to Breaktime, but an oldtimer to carpentry. And I’m never too proud to learn, or share. Will appreciate any information.
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I also remodeled a home while living in it with my wife!Thats one of those things you only do ONCE!(hopefully).The only ideas i can come up with are a very sharp block plane , or a belt sander hooked up to a good shop vac.Good luck!
Is there something stopping your from pushing the jamb out and flush?
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
How did you end up with that mess? 1/4 inch is hugh and then others are below the level of the rock? What the heckis up wiht that.
flies... the ones that are pround ... i'd nail up my casing then scribe some tapers for the outer edge ( assuming paint grade )
if it's stain grade... id find a rabbet that will make it flush , and rabbet the inside edge of the casing
on the ones that are below the surface , i'd rip extension jambs... either with a reveal or flush
Yup, this is the way to go. Get out the dado blade for the table saw, use the jointer, set the portable planer for rabbiting, dig out the rabbit bit for the router,... what-ever; if the result will make the molding too thin (and it might at 1/4"), then you can shim/caulk under the rock edge to <1/8" on painted trim.-->--> -->
Phill Giles-->-->
The Unionville Woodwright-->-->
Edited 2/11/2008 3:53 pm ET by PhillGiles
Mike, I respectfully disagree...unless I'm misunderstanding your intentions.The tapered shims I can live with assuming paintgrade but the reveal of the casing will still show a variation that will make things look skewed. The one suggestion that I don't agree with is filling the extension jambs instead of tapering (smashing) the wall board. Why are you opposed to this elegantly simple solution? Personally, I'd first determine that it was impossible to refit the entire frame and get things lined up better. I've rarely enocountered a window that I couldn't tweak at least 1/8". Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
i think he's talking about walls that are way beyond "smashing"
and way beyond 1/8
1/8 is just a nice caulk joint on painted trimMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Jim, what do you mean by tweak? And thanks to all for your suggestions. Keep them coming.
Tweak means to reset the windows correctly. If they are set wrong, they can be unset and set correctly. That process might be:cutting some nails, cutting some caulk and pushing the window back out, then renailing.Most new windows can be tweaked in a minute or two depending on how they were originally fastened. 100 year old windows are a different story.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I just power planed about 30 windows last week with jambs that were 1/4" proud of the rock (they were ordered wrong or manufactured wrong, and were all installed before the mistake was caught).
The power planer with a sharp blade makes wood shaving rather than dust (for the most part. It can also be hooked up to a shop vac.
Dados, etc. would not be my first choice.
someone deleted a message to me and it keeps telling me i have a message..
hey what was it you wanted to say ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Wasn't me, but this will get it off your radar and unhung.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
Sounds like a good prank. Does the reciever know the source? I'm making my list of guys to prank.... Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I didn't reply to U ...
I replied to the OP.
then reread the "conditions" ... remodeling with no dust ...
and figured my advice was worthless.
so ... deleted.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
yeah, i know..
dust is our constant companionMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
You don't know how to remodel without dust???I was hoping I could learn something....
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"After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion" -Neil deGrasse Tyson
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I have Transcended the need for a Humorous tagline...
i do... i haven't found anyone willing to pay for it yetMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
You don't know how to remodel without dust???
no ... but I'm certified to operate rolls of plastic and tape.
even took a course on building temp dust partitions ...
high level kinda stuff.
double top secret ... real complicated.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
put a mortising bit in your router build a jig that mounts to your base and glides over the drywall- set the depth and go get it tiger. put a handle on the jig cause trust me you will want one.this works good and fast dead balls on in two passesexcept for that door casing thing near the floor- that's why god made caulking and ficus plantsNo Tag
"No Tag" ....
is that your new gang nickname?
what happened to "Playa"?
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
you remember last summer when my nephews spent the weekend and mom and dad picked them up on sunday
and they were still in their pj's
and mom said get dressed
and max screwed around until mom got mad
in his rush to save himself he started pulling on his bvd's only he got cornfused about back and front
i heard his little panicked voice say "NO TAG...NO TAG"
and uncle dug saved himso everytime something is a little askew i say "No Tag- No Tag.)No Tag
OOooooooo ...
so that's like spanish for "no mas" ...
I see.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
no tagcomo estaque pasael burritto grandecan't spell in spanish eitherNo Tag
"If I tell ya I have to kill ya" secret??.
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"After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion" -Neil deGrasse Tyson
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I have Transcended the need for a Humorous tagline...
yup ...
the skills are just that difficult to master.
did I mention you'll need to shop vac the floor after?
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
What's a shop vac???.
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"After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion" -Neil deGrasse Tyson
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.
.
I have Transcended the need for a Humorous tagline...
I told U this stuff was hard!
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
fliesleg,
Power planer will make short work of those proud jams.. then polish them exactly flush with a belt sander..
"power tools and dust are out of the question"
"an oldtimer to carpentry"
Here's the easy answer.
I don't know if anybody has asked if you can REMOVE any and cut them properly and install again?
IE, do the windows have extension jambs? Or are they part of the window?
Doors, are what they are.
"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."
All good ideas. My experience is different.
I have an old lath & plaster coated house. So when I do a room out to the studs etc, I'm usually about 1/4"-1/2" too far into the rooms if we put in 1/2" drywall.
Option 1: Power plane the jambs to the drywall level (fastest);
Option 2: Use a hand plane (well, you DID say you are an old time carp);
Option 3: Rip narrow filler pieces once the trim is in place, between the trim & the drywall.
Option 4: All the rest of the high-tech stuff mentioned here.
Good luck.
Quality repairs for your home.
AaronR Construction
Vancouver, Canada
The hand plane seems to be the best fit since he isn't interested in dust. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I have done all of the above plus I plaster upon occasion. If the jamb sits proud and you have a wavy wall, I will use the straight jamb as a screed guide and feather the plaster to the wall. A loose 50/50 mix of plaster of Paris and joint compound can be wetted down, feathered and hard within 10 minutes ready to install casing. Down side is too much plaster, and you have to let it dry a bit as not to affect the wood of the casing.
Yours is one idea I've never considered...but I will now: thanks. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I have a Bosch power planer that hooks up to my Fein vacum/dust extractor via a step adaptor from Fein, and I get virtually dust free performance. I’ve put in a lot of hours with the Makita planer, and I would give the Bosch the edge.
The Fein Turbo II seems like a lot of money for a shop-vac, but it’s really quiet and efficient, and I’ve been using it more and more for dust extraction. It’s tool actuated and can handle up to 19 AMPS. It will stick my Dewalt sander to a wall and it gets about 99 percent of the dust from my 10 inch Hitachi.