Replies

1. 
   DaveRicheson | May 06, 2002 07:12pm | #1

   Several different ways come to mind. If the long ends are square, you can shoot your grade and mark it on the outside of the tube, then scribe it around, and cut with a jig saw, saws all, or hand saw. If the ends are not square, use the pipe fitters method. Cut a piece of paper at least 4" wide (5" or 6" is better) and in a strip a few inches greater than the circumference of the tube. Mark a plunb line on the tube and tape the square end of the strip of paper to the plumb line. When you wrape the strip around the tube and align the top and bottom edges you should have a level line. Mark the top edge of the strip and cut as above. A third method is to shoot several grade point around the tube with you transit/level and connect the dots. Fourth method is to cut a donut of plywood slightly smaller than the inside diameter. Mark the grade inside the tube and temporarily nail the donut to the grade mark. Use a torpedo level on the donut to level it. This has you cutting to an inside line and is challanging, but can be done.

   I have never tried it, but a Roto Zip tool might also work for cutting, particularly if you have to cut from inside the tube, or the bracing is in the way of other methods.

   Gabe probably has a few more methods he uses.

   Dave

1. 
   Eyeguy3038 | May 06, 2002 08:11pm | #4

   Thank you much for the replys, the paper method sounds simple and effective. Due to a lack of power at the site, a hand saw will have to suffice tho a jig saw would make it really simple. Thanks again. any other thoughts would be very welcome

2. 
   dw40 | May 06, 2002 07:15pm | #2

   I have used a crosscut sled with a high back on a table saw, but that's a bit more of a shop set-up solution. Of course, you could always take a wide piece of paper, felt, whatever and wrap it around the tube to give you a square line. Best of luck...

3. 
   CloudHidden | May 06, 2002 07:19pm | #3

   To mark them all level to each other, a revolving laser seems to be quickest, and a transit would also work. To get a level line the circumference of each, we always set them sideways on a coupla rollers or even just in the gap in a WorkMate. Then you can hold a pencil in one spot and roll the tube to mark it. If the ending pencil marks touch at the same point, ya likely got it right. If they spiral, you aren't rolling it smooth. Cut with a jigsaw, for example.

   Of course, if they're tied down in their holes, this isn't such a workable idea. Is the top level, but just long? If so, should be easy to build a jig to hold a pencil and roll it around the top edge. Cut with jigsaw.

4. 
   BarryE | May 06, 2002 08:41pm | #5

   How high did you leave them?

   Put some nails or screws thru the tube at your level line, pour your concrete to the screws and then trim the tubes.

   Barry

   ---

   It's not the habitat, it's the inhabitants.

   Won't you be my neighbor

   ---

1. 
   Eyeguy3038 | May 06, 2002 08:51pm | #6

   Hi Barry, Im on a slope so the first line are only a foot above grade, the second line are 2 1/2 feet above grade, those 2 lines Im not expecting any real difficulties. But, the 3rd line are about 4 ft above grade, maybe a little more and all three lines are installed and backfilled.  Your thoughts??

2. 
   Piffin | May 06, 2002 09:41pm | #7

   Like Barry, We leave them long, sometimes that helps attach braces to hold them to plumb, occasionally we even pour before backfilling, run some screws in at the grade to pour to and then trim off after the concrete kicks for a few days with a utility knife or if it has been wet, a good kick or two trims them well.

   Excellence is its own reward!

   Edited 5/6/2002 2:43:22 PM ET by piffin