Replies

1. 
   calvin | Jan 10, 2006 03:45am | #1

   How thick is the old subfloor.

   Be sure you know the framing under those walls.  Taking it to a couple inches of a wall may not leave you with enough framing to anchor the new ply and perhaps compromise the wall framing to floor joist connection (if any)

   A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

    

1. 
   Mark_F1 | Jan 11, 2006 03:11am | #2

   Calvin-
   Thanks for the feedback. The original plywood subfloor is about 5/8.
   I was considering this option to keep the finished floor height relative to what it originally was especially with the transition to the kitchen floor. This is the only other room on the main floor and it is finished. I understand the concerns you mentioned. If you wouldn't mind, how would you tackle this project.Thanks.
   Mark

1. 
   calvin | Jan 11, 2006 03:50am | #3

   Mark,   How bad is the animal damage (stink)?  I would defer a real answer until I saw the conditions.  I would be hesitant to start removal without thinking through the alternatives like sealing the stink (if possible).  How bad is the delamination? 

   You certainly could cut out alot, install blocking to re-seam the sheets and put down new.  A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

    

1. 
   Mark_F1 | Jan 12, 2006 03:22am | #5

   Hey Calvin-
   Honestly there are no side affects from the previous owners dogs with regard to the subfloor. When I bought the house, I removed the builder grade 3/8 pine flooring which was crap. The pine was stained, chewed and otherwise revealed the shortcomings of the subfloor.
   The subfloor is delaminated in the corners where the sheets intersect and is otherwise soft and wavy. I'm sure it could be much better after a box of deck screws or something.
   My thinking with replacing the ply with a 23/32 T&G product would be to create a strong stable base. A portion of the living room is a high traffic area. Within six feet you can go upstairs, downstairs, outside, enter the kitchen or the living room. My goal is to have a finished floor that looks great but is solid as a rock and could support a full size piano if needed.
   What do you think?

1. 
   calvin | Jan 12, 2006 03:35am | #6

   What did the cheap pine feel like on top of that subfloor?  If solid feel and no squeek is a goal, you might get by with screwing down the original.  You know the potential problems cutting out vast portions of the sub floor.  The slight differences in thickness could be dealt with I'm sure.  Blocking of cut seams would have to be done right so there was no sponginess at their locations (blocks fastened to joists on perpendicular seams, backer strip with blocks fastened between joists for parallel seams-if not on a joist).  Add wiring, ductwork etc and there's alot of work there.

   This is one of those cases where I really would have to see the existing before I would advise on the repair.  Having a good base to nail HW to certainly helps. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

    

2. 
   EricPaulson | Jan 11, 2006 04:54am | #4

   Ask the floor guy yo look at it and make an assesment for you.

   I've never if rarely seen one as bad as you describe unless it was flooded, or they had a zoo in there.

   Eric

   [email protected]

    

    

   It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been

    

    

    

3. 
   BUIC | Jan 12, 2006 04:02am | #7

     I had the same problem in my first home. Pet urine that defied all attemps to clean or nutralize it over a 4 week period. I won't bore you with the ugly details. One hot, humid august day I came home from work and lost it, the smell had gotten WORSE. It was bare sub-floor at this point, with many cleanings and two coats of shellac and it was WORSE.

     By the time my wife got home 2 hours later, you could stand in our kitchen and look thru 28' of floor joists, into the basement. Smell was gone.

      Sealed the joists with 2 coats of shellac, did a little shimming to the top of the old joists while I had the chance, then glued and screwed 3/4" exterior ply down.

     Never regretted the extra work or expense involved, everything from there on out was mint.

     If your worried about any point loads, throw some blocking in while it's open and be done with it.

      If I had done this to begin with I'd have easily saved myself 40 hours of work and agrivation.

     Hope this helps, good luck...Buic    

1. 
   regreaves | Jan 12, 2006 06:02am | #8

   Buic:

   I'm remodeling an older house that has 1/2 inch ply subfloor. I want to cut it out and glue and screw 3/4 sturdi-floor to make a solid base for tile. I'm worried about the wall connection to the subfloor at the edge. Did you cut the whole floor out up to the walls? Any Problems?

   Thanks.

1. 
   BUIC | Jan 13, 2006 05:36am | #10

     Yes, I cut the whole floor up, to within 2 or 3 inches of the walls.  I had no problems from doing this. New floor was very solid.

     There were a few spots that a knew would see a lot of traffic so I put some 2x4 blocking under the edge of the ply, between the floor joist. Probably was overkill, but hey.

     By the way is your 1/2" sound and flat?  If it is you might want to leave it and schmear a full layer of adhesive and screw the 3/4" on top of that. 1 1/4" of ply would make a heck of a base for tile. Just a thought...Buic 

1. 
   Mark_F1 | Jan 15, 2006 04:53am | #12

   I'm gonna do it.
   A question please. The original subfloor is 5/8 and the new will be 3/4 (23/32). Starting the new sub a few inches from the walls will leave a difference in height of 1/8 or so. How do you suggest compensating for this?

1. 
   BUIC | Jan 15, 2006 05:05am | #13

     If you want to level out anything before the floor goes down, get a bag of dash patch, mix and apply as needed.  While it's wet and fresh be sure to leave it flush and smooth. It's a real pain to scrape/sand after it's set.

     Have fun...Buic 

2. 
   Mark_F1 | Jan 13, 2006 05:08am | #9

   Wow Buic, I like it!I certainly don't mind the work and the expense is easily justified. I am also curious how close you cut to the walls. Are there any other tips or tricks you can offer?Thanks for sharing you thoughts.Mark

1. 
   BUIC | Jan 13, 2006 05:41am | #11

    Mark - Yeah, one more tip, watch your step on the open joists!

     Other then that it's really just a straight forward remove and replace type job...Buic