Ok, on a second bathroom in one of the most rinkydink houses I’ve worked on. The previous HO was theoretically a contractor, but I can only hope he did better work when he got paid.
Prior to ripping it all apart, the drain, handles, and faucet were all on the left side of the tub in a ponywall. They ran the plumbing through the walls and around to the other side (right) of the shower to the shower head. I’m concerned I won’t be able to get enough of a drain slope if I try to move the drain to the right (with all the other plumbing) like the HOs want. Has anybody seen a drain on the opposite side of the shower as the supply? Any problems with doing it this way? The HO doesn’t want another pony wall, if possible. THanks in advance. I’m sure I’ll have some more questions the farther along I get.
Steve
PS Any standard height for showerheads/fixtures?
Replies
Although uncommon, I have seen right handed valve on a left handed tub, & vise versa.
Just some getting used to the tub sloping away from the spout & head.
6'-4" is common for shower head stub outs, I prefer them to be a bit higher.
People are taller these days & shower heads are getting bigger.
6'-6" 6'-8" are a good figure to use that a person over 6' can get their head wet without having to bend over.
“How many observe Christ’s birthday! How few, his precepts! O! ‘tis easier to keep Holidays than Commandments.” —Benjamin Franklin
At what height do you set your tub/shower curtain rod?
76" was what we set them at the 350 room Westin hotel we just completed.“How many observe Christ’s birthday! How few, his precepts! O! ‘tis easier to keep Holidays than Commandments.” —Benjamin Franklin
"PS Any standard height for showerheads/fixtures?"
Yeah -- the "standard" is about 6" too low! <G>
That's one of my pet peeves -- shower heads that are about chest high. I like 'em so the shower head is a little over 6' off the deck.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
My experience is that they are usually too high. It's common to set them above the top of a 6-6 enclosure wall (making it about 6-9) so they don't have to drill the enclosure. (Scart of effing it up, I think.) (Though I also see this height with tile walls, so maybe it's something else.) I prefer it at maybe 6-2 -- 6-3.But if doing this for the HO, it should be the HO's choice.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
"My experience is that they are usually too high. It's common to set them above the top of a 6-6 enclosure wall (making it about 6-9)"
Just right, IMHO. Only too high if I can't reach it standing on tippy toes. ; -)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I put the valve on the other end to get the valve out of the outside wall, since the last one froze, broke, thawed, flooded, damaged and overall runied my clients day. There heels are pointed downhill now for frontal rinsing, but they have adapted. I always put the shower spout as high as possible, since the water WILL fall back down and it will not loose to much temp on it's way down. Funny how gravity works! The only issue with a shower head high is short people wanting to mess with the shower head.
Don't you remember the song from teh 70's? "Short People ani't got no reason . . . "
If you sit in the tub you want your feet to be "downhill". And you don't want your back being stabbed by the spout.
I once had a modular home that was made in Canada. All of the tubs had the drain in the middle. Thereby you could put yer plumbing on either end.
Thought it was a good idea. I have never seen one since.
You can get a tub with an elevated bottom, to provide more clearance for the drain pipe. Seem to be popular in cheap motels, where they like to see if they can make you fall in the bath from stepping out of the shower and losing your balance.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
So the latest word from the HO is that it will now be a drop in...Plans change frequently with these clients. So now I am waiting for a tub, or at the least specs on it so I can do some framing. Anybody have tips for drop-ins? Thanks
Read the instructions. When they say do not let the lip take the load they mean it. If you're going to raise it due to your drain then make sure it's supported below.
And DO NOT use expansion foam under it. Been there done that!!!!!"No doubt exists that all women are crazy; it's only a question of degree." - W.C. Fields
What was your experience with the foam? Was it used to attempt to support the tub, or just make it not sound hollow? Never tried it before. I could imagine it's not much for structure, I'll probably rule that out.
maybe im just used to having the option of shifting to a different part of the house since i primarily do rehabs but i wouldnt do any framing until i could see the tub. Things really need to be perfect with them (as far as support) and planning the framed structure can be complicated when keeping in mind the tile layout (or other finish), the support of the tub keeping in mind where the lip will sit, and.. i guess that's it but for me it is enough that i don't usually start framing anything until the tub is physically there.______________________________________________
--> measure once / scribble several lines / spend some time figuring out wich scribble / cut the wrong line / get mad
Yeah, that's kind of what I'd like to do--wait til I see it with mine own eyes...I just have no clue when it will come in, and was hoping there was some way to get a head start.
Edited 2/1/2007 12:43 pm by SBerruezo
Most Tub companies have PDF files for installs available on the web. Have your owners give you the FINAL choice that they have made, go online and see if you can't find a PDF file for it.
I have done this several times with no problem.
(Just to make sure you are getting the real info , ask them for a copy of the sales slip that calls out which model # etc.)