Replies

1. 
   BossHog | Jul 16, 2008 10:35pm | #1

   I've never tried a buffing pad. But it doesn't sound right.

   I sand between coats with 220 grit sandpaper, then wipe clean with a tack cloth. That smooths up high spots.

   .

   BTW - We need pics of the chest now that you've mentioned it on BT....

   Housework probably won't kill you.
   But why take a chance?

2. 
   Danno | Jul 16, 2008 11:29pm | #2

   Are you using tung oil, or tung oil varnish? Oil won't build up and you'll end up with a gooey mess, so I'm betting it's tung oil varnish. I would do like Boss said and sand lightly between coats--I would think that if you buff it shiny, there will be no "tooth" for subsequent coats to grab onto. If you want a nice finish that builds and each coat melts into the previous coat, use shellac.

1. 
   gdcarpenter | Jul 16, 2008 11:38pm | #3

   It's straight Tung Oil, I guess I just like the look. Also it's easy to touch up at any time. Realize I'll never get any 'build up'. Thought of shellac, but have never used the stuff, and didn't want this to be an experiment, have worked with tung oil before.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!

1. 
   rasconc | Jul 17, 2008 12:39am | #5

   Have you ever tried mixing it with boiled linseed oil and min spirits.  That is how we did our floors and I have done a lot of pieces that way.  Two parts quality TO, one each BLO and MinSp.  Dries much quicker and allows multi coats more rapidly.  I use a pretty much odorless MSpirits.

1. 
   gdcarpenter | Jul 17, 2008 03:02am | #6

   Thanks Rasconc. How 'repairable' or 'touchable' is the final product.
   I use double boiled linseed oil on the rough cut bevel cedar siding at my cottage in Canada, and know it can stay 'tacky' for a long time, guess that's where the mineral spirits come in.I'm a newbie here in CT, relocated from Raleigh, do miss NC.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!

1. 
   rasconc | Jul 17, 2008 04:04am | #8

   I think it blends pretty well.  Our floors are cherry from Zickgraff in Franklin.  They are shorts 5" wide.  DW hand rubbed two to three coats.  About a day between IIRC.  I used buffer with fine scotchbrite to get a matte finish which I think is easier to touch up.  The spirits will help.

3. 
   BossHog | Jul 16, 2008 11:44pm | #4

   Nice looking piece. I'm sure she'll love it.

   Does she know about it yet?

   .

   I made one a while back. Here are my pics:

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=65692.87

   .

   and one with Carly sitting on it:

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=65692.106

   When all else fails, read the instructions.

4. 
   hammer1 | Jul 17, 2008 03:03am | #7

   Tung oil isn't the most durable of finishes. Most of the products that say tung oil on the can contain little or no tung oil. You have to seek out pure tung oil. It's a naturally drying type oil. It's difficult to build a film surface with it and you are better off not trying. It will turn darker as time passes and it will lose it's luster. The easiest way to shine it up works well with many finishes. Don't use a power buffer. You can cut through the finish and create heat.

   Once the coating has had time to thoroughly dry, buff lightly in the direction of the grain with 0000 steel wool, by hand. It's worth finding Liberon steel wool, it's a bit finer, more consistent and doesn't contain the machine oil that ordinary steel wool has. Clean up and apply a coat of paste furniture wax. It's used like some older car waxes. Apply a very light coat, allow to dry to a haze and buff with a soft cloth. It's good for your furniture to apply paste wax a couple of times a year.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

5. 
   bd | Jul 17, 2008 01:31pm | #9

   With oil finishes, I think you get the nicest finish rubbing the oil in with either 0000 steel wool or green scotchbrite pads. Flood the surface, rub the oil in until it's mostly absorbed or noticeably thickens. Then wipe off. Let dry. Skip the sanding between coats.

6. 
   parrothead | Jul 17, 2008 04:54pm | #10

   I use a tung oil varnish (Danish Oil). Apply a coat let it sit for twenty minutes and wipe it off. On the second cost apply it and "wet sand" with 220 girt wet/dry paper, and then wipe that off. Third coat, apply wet sand with 320 grit, wipe off. Forth coat apply wet sand with 400 grit, wipe off. Keep appying as many coats as you like you really don't need to go higher than 400 grit. Wax after the coats are completly dry, about a week.

    

   Mike

   We are the people our parents warned us about. J. Buffett
7. 
   McDesign | Jul 17, 2008 07:59pm | #11

   HEY MY NAME IS FRENCHY AND YOU SHOULD AL:WAYS USE SHELLAC!

   Forrest - not really