I want to turn a small basement window into a useable service door by knocking out the block wall that’s below the window and framing in a door. The existing window is framed in right below the sill beam that sits on top of the block foundation wall, and is about 34×16″ The proposed size of the new door will be 36″w x 50″ h.
There are several issues that I have been thinking about this winter while I wait for nice weather to start this project.
- What’s the best tool / technique to get the existing block out? It’s hollow block. Do I rent one of those chain-saw engine driven cutters? Use an air-chisel to get out the mortar and take it apart one block at a time?
- How much clearance should I have above the outside grade for the door sill?
- I was thinking about buying a Stanley metal door and disassembling the frame, cutting the door to height, and reassembling the frame. I would then have two of the three hinges left and the lock / knob would be close to the top. Am I insane to contemplate this? Anyone ever done something like this?
- Any source for custom-size doors (36×50) that are similar to the stanley metal door without costing an arm and a leg?
If anyone has insight into this type of project, I would appreciate it.
Thanks
Alec
Replies
I'm trying to figure out why only 50" high. Is this only a partial basement and not a full wall?
If the4re will be any living space within, the "door" should be a minimum height to meet code. This is more of a "hatch".
Cutting down a metal door preformed will leave you with a mess. You would lose the rail infill at the battom and have nothing to make the door solid. The cut edges will be prone to early rust. I can think of ways to do it but they would be extremely labor intensive.
Block will cut pretty easy, if you can handle the dust. You can buy a masonry abrasive blade for about 7-8 bucks or go up to a B&D disposable diamond blade for aboput 38 dollars to put in your circular saw. With somebody nearby to keep misting the cut down, it isn't too bad. You'll need eye protection and a dust mask still.
Cheaper still is a flat blade cold chisle and a sledge hammer.
Since this is just a utility door, why not make a slab door your self?
Excellence is its own reward!
I tend to agree mostly with Piffin on how to cut the wall out (pretty easy really).
But if you get a plain steel door (no crossbucks or panels stamped in), they're pretty easy to cut down, dig the foam out to create a slot for a new bottom rail and glue in. smooth the cut metal edges with a fine flat mill file and sandpaper and then prime with a good rust inhibiting metal primer, etc. You should clamp the metal to the bottom rail while the glue sets, or drill small pilot holes and tack the metal to the rail so it stays flat.
I've cut off a couple of these doors before (not as much as you're proposing) and what I've used to make a really nice clean cut is a Fein multi-master tool with a segmented metal cutting blade....a great tool to have around anyway!
Sure it CAN be done but by the time you spend all that labor and money, you can have built a door.
but if it's going to be doen, a can of Bondo should be part of the shoppong list too..
Excellence is its own reward!
yeah, I know, the 50" height is no fun, but that's all I have to play with w/o tearing up the driveway and re-grading the ground outside.
The house is on a sloping lot, so the basement foundation wall is almost entirely below grade at one end and about extends 52" above grade at the other end. I figure 50" would be enough to wiggle in 4x8 sheets, and whatever else needs to go in and out, but I don't plan on using it as a regular entry. Call it a project entry and exit hatch!
Thanks for the tips on doors. I considered making a door out of a wood slab, but thought it would cost more, and be more prone to air leakage and rot than a steel door. the cutting will be messy, but I figured if I did that part at the top, it wouldn't be prone to letting in the weather, and rusting so much since the top is more likely to stay dry than the bottom. Plus, the pre-cut knob hole would be at the right height.
If you wanta be clever, build a round plank door. There were some fine examples in the first "Lord of the Rings" episode.
A lot has to do with what your comfort level and skill level is. Soujds like you've thought it out pretty good. Cutting at top is beeter from weather and rust viewpoint but less desireable from a structural view. You'll have to be sure that the new spline rail you insert is well adhered so it is still a door and not a curtain.
Good luck!.
Excellence is its own reward!
Believe it or not, I've seen doors exactly what you want installed in the foundation of modular housing. A friend had a modular built in a retirement neighborhood that is run by a company that uses one type of modular home. Most of these are installed over crawlspaces, and each house comes equipped with a half-height steel door set into the foundation for access to the crawlspace. My friend had a full basement installed, but the house still came with the half door. He is using it for the same reason you want one, to put sheet goods and long stock into his basement shop without going through the contortions of a Bilco door. Someone brought up the issue of codes, so you should check with your local inspector, but I'm not sure it would be a problem if it's not used for regular access. (Sort of like a trap door to the attic, right?)
I'll give my friend a call and see if he can find out anything, but it might be a custom job, and you know what that means.
Codes issues would only apply if it access or egresses "living space".
Excellence is its own reward!
I don't know what sort of structure is over the block wall, but are you saying that you are going to remove part of the foundation wall and put no header into the newly created opening? (If I got this right, you said you had 52" to work within and planned on a 50" door, right?)It doesn't matter how fast you get there, it just matters that you go in the right direction.
The existing header, i think it is 4x10, is already there, and goes above the existing window frame.
Sounds very do-able, but the 50" height really jumped out at me. What a head-knocker!
If you cut the metal door, get some cold galvanizing compound. I bought a spray can at my bolt distributor, they sell it so you can touch up cut off bolts. Sand the cut edges and a little more, spray on the galvanizer, and you'll go a long way toward inhibiting rust.
Do it right, or do it twice.
Hi Alec,
Some recommendations after opeing up a block wall to my garage:
1-position the opening so that at least one side falls exacly on the joint line of every other block. This way, when you cut that side you can leave whole blocks in place.
2-don't use your regular circular saw. The baseplate will get scratched and could leave a mark on future wood cuts. The dust from the cutting is abrasive and will coat the motor housing and guard hinge. I found this dust is impossible to fully remove. My saw never was the same after cutting that wall. I recommend just buying a cheap saw for this job.
3-Buy several of those abrasive blades. They fit a standard circurlar saw, but will wear out quickly. Set depth to about 1in, then cut on the line. Increase the depth and repeat the cut until you reach the full depth of the blade. By this point the blade will no longer be full sized, so change the blade and do the final cut at the full depth of a new blade. You can do this from just one side then use a cold-chisel to knock out the rest, or make an alignment hole and do a second set of cuts from the otherside and between the two passes it should go all the way through. If you use the chisel then be careful, it isn't hard to knock a block out of the morter. It is best to chisel downward to avoid this problem.
4-Definately wear eye and dust protection. The dust will make it hard to see the block, so be sure to make a very dark line to indicate the cut. I used a big shapie to mark the line and it was still hard to see. If you can get an "assistant" then she can vacuum above the cut to keep it clear and to keep the dust down.
5-As long as you don't increase the width of the original window openeing, then no additional support is needed for the header. This is the easiest way to go. If you do need to increase it then take out one more block on the top of either side and insert a header rated for that side opening. I ended up using a doubled-up PT 2x8, but they also have ones made of concrete for block walls. The advantage of the concreate one is that it is already sided to the block size and can be mortered to the top row of block.
6-It would be nice if that door had a window at the top to let in some light.
Matthew
"....buy several of those abrasive blades..."
Those abrasive blades are to cutting masonry like Thompson's Water seal is to protecting a cedar deck. For the price of a couple of them, you can get an inexpensive 7 1/4" diamond blade that will be good for more than one project.
You might want to call a real window and door supplier. A good shop should be able to make a pre-hung custom-height flush insulated steel door with the hinges and lockset bores in logical places for a lot less than you might think.
Al Mollitor Sharon, MA
Al,
Since we are both in Massachusetts, do you have any one in particular that you would recommend for the custom door? I admit that my only investigation into that route was to ask the special orders desk at HD if they could order the door any shorter than 80"
Thanks.
More on cutting the door...
No big deal at all.
I've cut plenty of them in the past. Some as close to as short as you are planning.
Get the cheapest Stanley they sell. Cheap abrasive blade in a regular old circular saw goes right thru. First time I was gonna do it..the plan was to cut one side then flip. Went so smoothly.....I've been cutting thru in one pass since.
Take the door outta the frame. Cut both at the top.
This way...the important part of the frame..the threshold....stays factory fresh. Just cut off the top....across the side jambs.....then dado the side jambs to re-accept the head jamb. You can nip the weatherstrip with tin snips and it all goes back like it came ta ya...only shorter.
Now..for the door. I just cut across and fill with lumber. Some have recommended expanding foam.....but a cut down celler hatch door with a few screw heads showing doesn't bother me. If it mattered..that might be the way to go. I do glue the lumber in.
A buddy goes thru the trouble of measuring long.....then making the cuts...so he can fold the top back in. He foams first...then folds along the scored line......starts with a hand seamer...finishes up with a mallet. I've seen close up pics of his doors.....look damn near perfect.
My method takes maybe a long 45 min start to finish.
Be sure to sand and prime the cuts.
But it is at the top...and the weather strip is back in..so really not much of a concern.
First one I did was over 5 yrs ago......no problems yet.
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite