Two questions please:
1.Insulating behind drywall on skylight shaft, can blue board be used ? thickness?
2.Framing a window opening at the ceiling level of 1st floor in a two story balloon framed duplex (era 1922). Window is going in small bath 5 ft+ exterior wall above 5′ shower unit. Two awning type units approx. 12″ high. Not quite sure how to head them out in balloon framing so close to the ledger board. Suggestions please
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Replies
Foam fine for the sky shaft. I would go with two layers of 1-1/2". Spary fom to glue it in and seal at joints.
You might not need header for those windows if this is not a bearing wall, but assuming that it is, you willprobably need to open it up from the outside and fit the header in at the same level as the floor above, basically creating a rim joist beam in place.
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Thanks for the reply! Have a hard time picturing that, but then I've always been "right brained" anyway! Never had the walls open at that level I'm trying to picture the whole thing.
Right brained is better than hare brained
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Well, lookee lookeee......
Where'd you get that fancy illustration? Seriously Piff, what program is that? Looks like a cool video game for builders!
Dang it all Brian! You know I use Softplan.You just didn't know it had X-ray vision.once I draw a model and view the 3D, I can turn various materials on or off to be visible or not.
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Excellent. Maybe I'll get slow this winter and have some extra cash around...... wait.... what's wrong with that statement? Seriously, I'd love to find the time to become proficient with a program like that. Guess I've got time, right? I'm currently trying to learn the Portuguese language and have recently got back into meditation.... that's soaking up most of my "alone" time lately.
That's probably more information than you needed, huh? ;)
Portugese?
You thinking about moving to Rhode island or you wanna talk with your inlaws at holiday meals?, LOLhow do you say "You're fired" in that lingo?
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The Portuguese is because I've got two Brazilian guys working for me, one has been with me since I started out and the other is a fairly new hire. They are my highest paid guy and my lowest paid guy.....but are by far my two best guys. Least I can do is meet 'em halfway. I'm thinking I'll be hiring more of these guys in the future if I need more hands. Hard working, responsible, family oriented, and honest. Can't ask for more than that. They even have SS#'s and driver's licenses... it's like hitting the lottery!
take 'em to dinner in Fall Rive... lot's of great portuguese restaurants there
even some with fado singers..
you can practise while you dineMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
You just keep moving up another notch in my book.How do you say, "you just earened a bonus this week" in Portugese?
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I thought you were buying a home with remodeling plans. That plan still happening?
Yep, closing is scheduled for Jan 13th.... hope to rip the roof of in early spring. Why do you ask?
Hey that is neat stuff, that Soft Plan. Thanks for the illustration. Makes it a lot easier to picture. For what I've got planned it looks like the (ledger board?) may be in the way. I'd like to put the windows top edge right at the ceiling line. Could the (ledger board?) be removed in the area that the header is? What kind of alterations to remove it?
yes, it would be removeable. It is there normally to perch the floor joists onto. You will need to cut those floor joists off where they protrude into the wall space and they will then not be long enough to sit on that ledger. ( this means you will have supported them temporarily inside)
Then you will subsect the studs, insert the beam from below, add jack studs to support it ( see how hard that would be from inside with the shower still there?) and then hook the floor joists to the header with simpson joist hanger hardware.This is all dependent on my assumptins that your ballon frame is substantially the same as most i have dealt with.If the studs are supporting the roof loads also, that means you will need to possibly temporarily hold it with other jacks from in or outside. I can't see it from here, but , again making some assumptions, I might bolt a 2-by ledger to the exterior wall immediately below the soffit, and notch some paired 2x6 or 2x8 to hook in under that, angling away to ground level to support the roof loads and use the same to attach a plastic tent to protect the house and myself from inclement weather while working this through.
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Hey thanks for all the info, as you can probably tell, finish work is my forte!
If I open up a 5' section of wall for the window will adding just two jack studs support all that extra weight from the 5 or so studs that are removed?
And by the way, I have a sister that lives up in God's country, Belfast to be exact, but she's lived all over the state.
We've spent many vacations up there helping her rebuild her houses over the last 30yrs. What island might you be from?
Now you are asking a specific engineering qustion without all the specifics that we don't do here, but probably yes, though it is getting close.Maine is a pretty placebut I never thought of Belfast as God's Country, LOL.
When you look out from belfast, you are looking at the north end of Islesboro. That is where I live and work
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I was speaking of Maine as awhole as "god's country". I come from the midwest, Toledo to be specific. We have the Great Lakes, but.............
Thanks again for your input!
Some mighty fine folks live in Ohio
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Would you use simpson joist hangers to catch the ends of the joists that get cut off by the new header?
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
of course.
I was just rying to show the spatial arrangement of parts so he could imagine how to get at it all.
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I wasn't critisizing the lack of hangers on the drawing. I have never worked in a balloon framed house, so I didn't know if there was some other trick to hanging the joist ends.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.