Replies

1. 
   Boss_Hog | Apr 30, 2001 10:59pm | #1

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   I don't think you could get a bolt stiff enough to keep the wall stable.

1. 
   Allyson_Stiles | May 01, 2001 12:01am | #2

   *I've enclosed a CAD detail drawing in .jpg format.I'm assuming this is a flat roof with metal pan and concrete poured on top or a gypsum poured deck. Ron is right. The use of a uni-strut and threaded rod will not work because the rod would have too much give. But in the drawing I've used metal studs in the drawing but the same applies for wood. Use 20 gauge metal track for kickers at 45 degree angles. Shoot with a Hilti gun into the roof deck and screw to the top plate of the wall.Billy

1. 
   mark_J | May 01, 2001 05:14am | #3

   *Why not use metal studs & screw the track to the ceiling grid? It is a common practice in commercial work. You could use a jbead or a Raco head track.Just a suggestion.....MJ

1. 
   Tim_Kline | May 01, 2001 05:37am | #4

   *b WBA At Your ServiceGo to your local professional fastener supplier and ask them for hex head self drilling screws with wings for attaching 2x to steel. The screws will be about 2 1/2" in length and should be about 1/4" shank size. The wings are for boring the hole through the wood. They break off when you get to the steel. You will need a decent quality screw gun. A 1/4" to 3/8" thick bar joist flange will be no problem for these screws.

1. 
   Allyson_Stiles | May 01, 2001 06:09am | #5

   *I read your question somewhat wrong. (or did I?) If you are going all the way to the bottom of the truss, the bolt will work. We've done that before when we had to use fire resistant wood in an MRI room instead of steel studs. I thuought you were 2' below the bottom of the trusses from what you typed. We used 1/2" bolts if I remember correctly.mark's suggestion is the best if you can use steel studs. Why can't you use them?Billy

2. 
   calvin_ | May 01, 2001 12:54pm | #6

   *Bottom of the grid works well, screw the grid to the top plate/track from above. I use Tearaway L bead to finish the board to. Think it looks a little cleaner than J. If going to bot. of bar joists, I use a deep throat track to float the top plate/track in since those joists rise and fall quite a bit. I temporarily screw the plates together till the board is hung, then remove so the bar joists can move. The angled kickers outta steel stud/track work well. Now Billy, where's that number off the pack of sawzall blades?

3. 
   Sean_Dunn | May 02, 2001 03:22am | #7

   *Billy, You were correct with the first assumption. This is my first commercial job, hence the inexperience with metal studs. I think I will try the kickers. Thanks for your help!

2. 
   Sean_Dunn | May 02, 2001 03:22am | #8

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   I am remodeling a commercial building. There are drop ceilings with about 2ft clearance to the steel trusses. I will be adding some partition walls and don't know what the "proper" technique would be to secure the top plate to the trusses without taking the wall all the way up to the truss. I was thinking a threaded bolt running through the top plate to the truss, fixed on both ends of the bolt. Any help would be appreciated.