New one for me on a small remodel.
Putting up a new interior partition wall under existing trusses & 5/8″ rock.
Of course, the wall runs parallel to the trusses and falls in-between them (24″ oc).
I have several ideas on how to tie in, but am curious how you would do it.
Thoughts?
ps…I do have access to the attic, so that is not a problem.
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Replies
The attached file has some pics of how to do this.
Boss-
Thanks; very helpful. Definitely familiar with the basic concepts on uplift & avoiding it, but this is the first detailed diagram I have seen and it is a good one.
This raises an issue that I have thought of before but don't have an answer to...what if the trusses are already 'up'??
I'm in the cold northland and nights are getting down to single digits now. And that's a warm spell.
So if they are uplifted now, in theory I risk the opposite problem when the weather moderates, correct?
If the trusses are "up", the details shown in there should still allow the ceiling to float. I don't see a problem.
Men are Like bank accounts
Without a lot of money they don't generate a lot of interest.
I though that was what crown molding was for? Throw us trim carps a bone!
I'll usually block between the trusses every 48" and at wall intersections for what you're doing and simply nail up through your top plate into the blocking, leaving a gap of 1/2" or whatever it takes to stand the walls up without much fussing around.
While this technically doesn't allow the sheetrock on the ceiling to flex if the trusses move, you're in an exsisting house and most of the movement has probably run it's course. Two nails every 48" isn't much and trusses would surely be able to raise/lower enough to not cause problems from being held solid. At least in our neck of the woods, it would be quite surprising if any cracking along the ceiling intersection were to occur down the road.
Having said that, if you're building the new wall on a slab, or floor joists supported midspan of the foundation on piers or short walls, only the history of the house can prepare you for how much and what kind of floor movement to allow for. I've seen $500 track homes in Colorado built on what used to be great farm land, sink, sink, and sink some more. Slabs were framed on, allowing a full 2" of movement for the foundation to settle around the slab, and they needed it. There's been more than one lawsuit over the drywall cracks in those places.
Cheers,
Don
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Si, I'd just screw/glues the partition to the sheetrock.
Since it's winter, you can pretty well judge whethere uplift is an issue: just look to determine how much it's raised. I've lived unders several sets of trusses and only one raised up any singnificant amount.
blue
Options, options...
I will do some crawling around to see if I can determine if there's any lifting going on.
Thanks everyone for the advice!
Here in the Northeast, we use 1x3 strapping 16" OC on our ceilings before sheetrocking. It runs perpendicular to the framing. Partitions that fall off a truss or joist are no problem. In an after fit situation, you could use a double top plate to strengthen the lateral movement of the partition. I'd climb into the attic and add some nailers between the trusses, if there is no strapping. Flat 2x4s, 24" OC +- should be fine. Use screws or a nail gun so you don't pop a bunch of screws in the ceiling. You will have to pull back the insulation if there is any.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match